Fall Blaze Hat

I designed this hat using a yarn colorway called Tiki the first week of April, but the mathematical aspect was more of a challenge than I could compute while bicycle-brained. We had a 16-hour round trip drive to Durango at the end of September, and I needed to finish a WIP (work in progress) for brig points during the Starfleet Fiber Arts Corps fall break. So I took along the hat, a skein of hummingbird-colored yarn and my pattern notes to work on in the car.

I got zero crocheting done the first six hours of the drive because I couldn't peel my eyes from the gorgeous golden autumn leaves. I filled a memory card taking pictures about every 15 minutes or so. "Oh, can we stop here?" "Please, let's stop again!" "That's spectacular! Can we please stop one more time?" "Oh, look! Oh, we HAVE to stop here!"

This put us in danger of missing our Fall Blaze packet pickup, so The Lizard directed me to crochet and not look at the leaves from Ouray to Durango, the most scenic part of our drive.

I finished the hat that night in our hotel room and then cleaned up the pattern so I could photographically turn the project in for my Ravelry points, then rode 47 miles the following day to benefit the Fort Lewis College Skyhawk cycling team. My ride included 20 seconds alongside 4th place USA Pro Cycling Challenge (Tour of Colorado) finisher Tom Danielson! After a good night's rest, The Lizard and I hit the road again, and I shot a ton more pictures between Durango and Ouray, filling another memory card. I didn't miss out after all!

When I first designed the hat, I was going to name it Tiki after the colorway. That name didn't fit the second hat in peacock blue, pink, emerald and violet, and I wasn't too enthusiastic about naming the hat Hummingbird. I like naming my designs after places I've been and want to go, so I tossed around a few ideas before seeking a second opinion. Because the pattern was finalized during our mini vacation, I asked The Lizard if I should name the hat Durango, Animas (the river flowing into Durango) or Fall Blaze. The Lizard really took to Fall Blaze. I decided it would be cool to make a third hat in autumn leaf colors before publishing the pattern.


Back home, a skein of Online Supersocke was the closest thing I had to fall hues. We do not have many pink leaves in Colorado, but October also is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, so pink and shades of quaking aspens go hand in hand this time of year. And this is one of the coolest colorways I own. Definitely Fall Blaze!

The stitch used in this pattern coordinates with Cowlin' Around and Spring Stripes fingerless gloves I've already designed and published earlier this year. At least one more pattern is still in the works to match these fun and warm lacy accessories.

You may do whatever you'd like with hats you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Fall Blaze Hat

Materials: 1 50-gram ball of self-striping sock yarn (I used Felici in Tiki colorway for the first hat, Felici in Hummingbird colorway for the second hat and Online Wellness II in 1202 colorway for the third hat) and, if desired, a small amount of solid sock yarn in a coordinating color for knitted ribbed edge (I used Palette in Conch colorway for the Tiki hat), size 3 dpns, size B crochet hook. NOTE: 1 50-gram ball of sock yarn is sufficient for one hat and same-color knitted ribbed edge. Using a solid color for the knitted edge leaves enough of the self-striping yarn to make a pair of matching fingerless gloves.

NOTE: This pattern now includes three crocheted edging options for non-knitters.

Finished Size: 8 inches from top to bottom, 11.5 inches across widest point, folded in half
Gauge: 14 dc=2 inches or 5 cms; 6 dc rows=2 inches or 5 cms
Pattern is worked in multiples of 8 stitches.

Instructions

This project is worked in the round and has no seam.

Using crochet hook and main color, ch 4 or make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as dc on this round), 12 dc in ring, sl st across starting ch 2 into 1st dc. Pull magic ring tight.
Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), *1 dc in next st, ch 2; repeat from * around for a total of 12 dc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 5.
Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last dc of final repeat, for a total of 6 ch/2 points.
Round 4: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), *1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3/dc group, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3; repeat from * around, ending with 1 dc in 3rd ch of starting ch of Round 3 instead of last 2 dc of final repeat; ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 6 for a total of 18 ch 3 spaces.
Round 5: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in starting ch 6 sp of Round 4, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in same sc, ch 1, *1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in same sc, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4; total of 42 dc.
Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around for a total of 84 dc; st st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. (OR, Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp and in each ch 1 sp around for a total of 84 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.)
Round 7: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around, increasing 6 dc and 6 ch 1 spaces evenly spaced around for a total of 48 dc and 48 ch 1 sp; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.
Round 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around for a total of 12 ch/2 points, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last dc on final repeat.
Round 9: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), *1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3/dc group, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3; repeat from * around, ending with 1 dc in final sl st of Round 8, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 6 instead of last dc/ch3 of final repeat for a total of 36 ch 3 spaces.
Round 10: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1dc, ch 1] in each ch 3 sp and in each dc and in each sc around, increasing 18 dc and 18 ch 1 spaces evenly spaced around for a total of 84 dc and 84 ch 1 sp; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.
Round 11: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. (OR, Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.)
Round 12: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around for a total of 84 dc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.
Round 13: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *sk 1 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, sk next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around for a total of 21 ch/2 tips, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last dc of final repeat.
Round 14: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), *1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3/dc group, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3; repeat from * around for a total of 42 ch/3 sp, ending with sl st in 3rdnd ch of starting ch 6 instead of last dc of final repeat.
Round 15: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around for a total of 84 dc, ending with sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4 instead of last dc on final repeat.
Round 16: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. (OR, Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.)
Round 17: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around for a total of 84 dc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.
Rounds 18-22: Repeat Rounds 13-16; change to coordinating color if using a solid color for knitted edge.
Round 23: With knitting needles, pick up 1 st in each st around, skipping every 7th stitch (pick up 6 stitches, skip one stitch) for a total of 144 loops on needles.
Rounds 24-35: *K 2, p 2; repeat from * around.
Round 36: Bind off; weave in ends. Wear and stay pleasantly warm!




UPDATE: Many non-knitters have requested a crocheted edge, so I’ve worked up three options. Instructions follow below.


Roll-up Brim (Tuque)

This is the warmest option but also requires the most yarn. If you are using a 50-gram skein or hank of yarn, you probably won’t have enough left over to make fingerless gloves, too.

Rounds 23-32: Turn and work from inside of hat. (I did not do this in the sample shown because I didn’t think of it until I finished and realized it would look better that way.) Repeat Rounds 13-16 twice (or 3 times for a wider brim).
Round 33: *1 sc in each of next 7 st, sk next st; repeat from * around; sl st in starting sc.
Round 34: 1 sc in each st around; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends. Fold up about 2 inches of rim of hat twice.


Crocheted Rib Brim

I did not finish making this edging because I don’t like crocheted ribs. I’ve included this option, however, because it is a popular stitch among non-knitters. An excellent front post double crochet tutorial is available here.

After Round 22, ch 8. Turn
Row 1: With inside of hat facing you, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 4 ch, yo and draw up loop through final ch, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop, draw through 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop, draw through 2 loops on hook (1 joining dc made); sl st in next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat), turn, sl st in next hat hody dc (go in through inside of hat). These 2 sl st count as the ch 2 beginning of the next row you would be making if you weren’t attaching the rim to the hat as you go.












Row 2: Fpdc across; do not forget to do the first and last st so you will have a total of 6 dc when done. Ch 2; turn.




Row 3: Fpdc across the first 5 st (don’t forget to do the first st), yo, draw up loop from beneath post of final dc, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop, draw through 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop; draw through 2 loops on hook (1 joining fpdc made); sl st in next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat), turn, sl st in next hat body dc (go in through inside of hat).


Repeat Rows 2 and 3 all the way around, joining Row 1 to final Row by pulling 2nd dc loop through corresponding stitches on Row 1 and bind off; weave in ends; OR work final Row normal, bind off leaving a long tail. Use tail to sew up ribbing. Weave in ends.


Cloche Brim

This is my favorite of the crocheted edgings.

Round 23: Repeat Round 17, increasing 8 dc evenly spaced around for a total of 92 dc.
Round 24: Repeat Round 13 for a total of 23 ch 2 points. Bind off. Weave in ends.


Of course, I still think the knitted rim is the best!

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