Car Cozy Monday

How do you turn a crocheted steering wheel cover into something wintery or Christmasy? Make it in holiday colors, Photoshop the photos, or, just wrap the completed project up and give it as a Christmas present. :) Snowflakes will be back next week. I just needed a new steering wheel cover, and I had a blast working up this pattern.

Back in 2021, Lizard's mom bought us an automatic (used) car, hoping it might allow Lizard to drive just a bit longer. (The stick shift and clutch in our 4Runner became too difficult for Lizard to operate a couple years into his Parkinson's diagnosis.) Mission accomplished. Lizard can't drive now, but he did get a few more months of driving before he had to turn all driving over to me. The new car came with a steering wheel that gets VERY hot in the sun, even though we keep a sun shade in the windshield when the car is parked. I ordered a steering wheel cover that first summer, and it worked really well until the last couple of months. Perhaps our unprecedented summer heat melted the elastic inside the purchased steering wheel cover. For several weeks now, my steering wheel has become a strip tease dancer. I cannot get it to keep its clothes on!

I'd seen a couple of really cute crocheted steering wheel covers, and I'd thought for years I might one day make one from the luscious colors in my sock yarn stash. When it came right down to it, I opted for acrylic yarn instead because I think it will last longer (if next year's heat doesn't melt it to the steering wheel, right???) and worsted-weight because larger stitches would work up faster. As in, two days... I'm on a new WIP diet. I'm not allowed to start new time-hog projects until I finish a few that have been waiting in the wings for years or even decades.

I opted to crochet the steering wheel cover base, then rib knit the edges to make the cover cling to my steering wheel. When I've shared bicraftual patterns in the past, I've received complaints from some of my readers who don't know how to knit. Feel free to crochet the steering wheel cover with perhaps 11 rounds instead of the 5 rounds I've shared here, then weave either yarn or perhaps some of those mask elastic leftovers through the edges to create that magic steering wheel cling.

It had been quite a while since I'd knit anything at all. I have (earplug-shaped) knitting needle stoppers somewhere. Probably preventing WIP stitches from sliding off the needles of the plethora of projects hiding in every nook and cranny of my house. I couldn't find a single one. I looked up how to make DIY needle stoppers, and I don't have anything on hand that might suffice other than tightly wound balls of crochet thread. I've now ordered new knitting needle stoppers (and they should be here Wednesday!), but I struggled through the knitting portion of this project with my stabbed project remnants. Not a highly recommended substitute. my little balls of thread frequently pretended to be kitty cat toys. Rolling across the floor after making a run for it and causing many stitches to drop off my needles in the process. Little boogers!

I love the lime green of my new steering wheel cover, but that lovely color actually wasn't my first choice. The eye-popping neon was the top skein in the first bin I opened when searching for a big enough ball of leftovers to cover a steering wheel. After I finish a few more projects, I may make a new steering wheel cover, and I'd just love to make it with a gradient or as close to the color of denim as I can get. I have an idea for a new stitch pattern, and I'm hoping my second idea doesn't have to percolate too long.

You may do whatever you'd like with steering wheel covers you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 14.5 inches across
Materials: Size G crochet hook, size 7 double-pointed knitting needles or circular knitting needles, 1 skein worsted weight yarn (I think this project used up less than half of the 4-ounce skein.)

November Skein Steering Wheel Cover Instructions

Ch 160. (In retrospect, I wish I had worked this cover with 150 stitches to make a bit tigher on my steering wheel. I suggest measuring your steering wheel, then subtracting two to three inches when working up your initial chain. For this pattern, you need a multiple of 2 stitches.) Taking care not to twist work, sl st in starting ch. Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each ch around for a total of 160 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Ch 2; turn, OR...

OR... (this is my favorite method), work a chainless dc as described by my good friend Mrs. Micawber.

Round 2: Work standing or chainless dc OR ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [sk next dc, 1 dc in next dc] to end of Round; ch 1, sl st in standing/chainless dc OR in 2nd ch of starting ch 3; ch 2, turn, OR, work standing or chainless dc.

Round 3: 1 dc in each stitch around; sl st in starting dc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Rounds 4-5: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3; sl st in starting dc at the end of Round 5.

Round 6: With double-pointed or circular knitting needles, draw up one loop through each stitch around.

Rounds 7-11: K 1, P 1 around; bind off. Weave in ends.

Round 12: On bottom of steering wheel cover, draw up loop through each dc around.

Rounds 13-17: K 1, P1 around; bind off. Weave in ends.

NOTE: Upon finishing this project, I put a dab of Elmer's Glue-All over each of my knots and massaged it in to make sure nothing unravels through what I hope will be heavy use before the sun fades the yarn color too much.

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Motif Monday

Last week's Avalanche Peak Snowflake inspired what I thought was a terrific project idea, so I worked up a few motifs with colors the project will incorporate. The inividual motifs are GORGEOUS. But, connected, I'm not so sure I like them. I'm still not quite sure what I will do with this new motif WIP, the last thing I wanted to create – yet another unfinished motif project that might not ever get finished. But I'll hang onto it, hoping one day it might become something meaningful.

I wondered if my idea might work if I came up with a square/four-pointed version of the motif. Today's pattern is not a let-down for me, but it doesn't grab me the way the snowflake pattern does. It's growing on me now, and I might try making a few more of these motifs and joining as I go, but not right now. I've got too many other unfinished projects screaming to see the light of day and the finish line!

I haven't tried the pattern in yarn yet to see if it will hold its shape as well as the thread version does – because I don't need any additional unfinished motif projects. :) Once the garden is done for this year and we have more hours of darkness, I might try a sock yarn version. If and when I do, I'll add it here. Until then, you're on your own if you want to make this in a larger size. Yet I'd love to see your results if you try!

You may do whatever you'd like with motifs you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 3.25 inches across
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 7 crochet hook

Avalanche Peak Motif Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc in ring; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch as sl st, [1 dc in next dc, in next dc work (2 dc, ch 8, 1 sc in 4th ch from hook and in each of next 4 ch), 2 dc in next dc] 3 times; 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 to begin forming 4th spoke of Round; 4 fsc, using top half of dc just made as 1st fsc and bottom half of dc just made as foundation for 2nd sc; ch 1, 1 dc in foundation of 4th sc to form 4th ch 3 tip of Round.

Round 3: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), 3 dc over post of dc directly below, [working down spoke, 1 dc in top of next fsc (or sc in repeats), 1 tr in next st, 1 dtr in next st, sk next 2 fsc/sc and next 2 dc, 1 fpdtr around post of next dc, sk next 2 dc, sk next 2 sc, working up spoke, 1 dtr in bottom of next sc, 1 tr in bottom of next sc, 1 dc in bottom of next sc, in next ch 3 tip work ([3 dc, ch 3] 2 times *, 3 dc)] 4 times, ending * on final repeat and omitting last dc of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 3 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 5 dc in same ch 3 sp, [working down spoke, 1 dc in next 3 dc, 1 tr in next st, 1 dtr in next st, sk next 2 st, 1 fpdc around post of next fpdtr, sk next 2 st, working up spoke, 1 dtr in next st, 1 tr in next st, 1 dc in next st, 6 dc in post of next ch 3 sp, ch 4, 1 sc in 4th ch from hook, 6 dc in next ch 3 sp] 4 times, omitting last 6 dc of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.

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Yoda Best

I actually have a snowflake pattern almost ready for today, but this Saturday is an important holiday, especially since we couldn't celebrate last year. (I sent cards.)

I wasn't sure I'd be able to finish my idea to thank my bosses for keeping me as an employee because it's fourth quarter, and I'm working through lunch most days and working late almost every night. Saturday, I spent ten hours on a project for my daughter (and am SO thankful now it's done and out of my hair!!!), and I finally finished up all four of my gifts by 9:30 last night.

Talk about cutting it close! They need to be in the mail today!!!

For my mug cozies (which technically aren't mug cozies, which would not be worked in the round and would button together through the mug handles, I pulled scrap worsted yarn from my stash.

I had no black shank buttons for eyes, but I had a handful of white. So I colored them with a black Sharpie. (Why couldn't Yoda have had blue eyes?!? I had plenty of blue shank buttons!!!)

This project is designed to fit a large paper coffee (or hot chocolate) cup from most coffee shops and is worked using two strands of worsted throughout. I wrote the pattern late last night, so it hasn't been tested. If you make one of these super-quick gifts, please check the fit on the intended cup often. If the cozy is too tight, add a stitch or two. If the cozy is too loose, use fewer stitches.

You may do whatever you'd like with cozies you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 3/5 inches tall, 4.5 inches wide laid flat
Materials: Size H crochet hook, scraps of yarn in two colors (using double strand), 2.5- to .75-inch buttons, sewing needle, sewing thread to match either buttons or yarn face color

Yoda Best Mug Cozy Instructions

Using 2 strands of tan, brown or desired clothing color, ch 21. (I used brown and tan.) Taking care not to twist work, sl st in 1st ch to create a ring. Check fit of intended cup. Add or subtract stitches as necessary for a snug fit.

Round 1: 1 sc in each ch around. Do not join.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 2: 1 sc in each sc around. Do not join on this or any of the following rounds until end of project.

Round 3: 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each sc around, .

Rounds 4-5: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3.

Round 6: Draw up loop through next st, join two strands of green or face color; yo and draw through both loops on hook. 1 sc in each sc around, burying ends as you go.

Round 7: 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each sc around, .

Round 8: 1 sc in each sc around.

Round 9: 1 sc in next sc, ch 7, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, sl st in next ch (ear made), 1 sc in each of next 10 sc, ch 7, work another ear same as previous ear, 1 sc in each sc around.

Round 10: 1 sc in each sc around; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Sew on button eyes. Buttons also may be strung onto green yarn and worked into crochet as you go, but I opted to sew them on with needle and thread rather than trying to thread the yarn through the button shanks.

Your project is ready for gifting! If desired, cut out a cup-shape from white cardboard and insert into mug cozy with desired greeting. If desired, you also may slip in a bar or handmade soap or a gift certificate to the recipient's favorite coffee shop.

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Rags 2 Riches

My April goal, in addition to finishing a WIP, is to finish a block a day. Doesn't matter what block. Doesn't matter if it's a WIP or new. Just finish a block each day. If I can.

I took a two-day break from Lizard Toes blocks last weekend because I got tired of walking past my huge mountain of selvedges. Really tired. I decided it was time to get rid of them.

This isn't even a fraction of the stash I separated out into color groups. I stitched half the selvedges together Friday night and began crocheting.

Saturday night I stitched the rest of the selvedges together, and finished up the rug. And now I don't have a stash of selvedges to annoy me while I'm trying to get things done anymore. At least until I start using up some of the untrimmed fabric in my stash, right?

You may do whatever you'd like with rugs you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Materials: Approximately 34 yards of selvedges or fabric cut into approximately 1-inch strips to make "yarn", size Q (or desired large) crochet hook, scissors, sewing machine and/or sewing needle, sewing thread

Rags 2 Riches Rug Instructions

Make "yarn" by sewing, tying or looping strips into one extremely long piece. (I machine-stitched my ends together.) For convenience and to prevent tangled messes, roll "yarn" into ball as you go.

Make magic ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in ring; do not join on this or any of the rounds that follow. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around for a total of 12 sc.

Round 3: [3 sc in next sc, sk next sc] 6 times for a total of 18 sc, 1 sc in next sc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 4: [3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc] 6 times.

Round 5: [3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc dec across next 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc] 6 times.

Rounds 6-desired width of project: [3 sc in next hexie tip sc, 1 sc in each of next hexie side sc, dec 1 st on each side, trying to to repeat decs directly above dc in previous Round] 6 times. Continue in this pattern until desired width of project is attained. Bind off. Weave in ends. For added strength, st a few sewing stitches by hand or by machine through beg and final ends

Linking up with Alycia Quilts and Confessions of a Fabric Addict.

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I Heart Finishes!

Two big bags of fleece remnants and selvedges have lingered in my basement since... Gosh, it's been so long, I had to look it up.

2015!

The girls I taught for five years and their mothers used to make nearly 100 fleece blankets about this time each year for Children's Hospital.

The last couple of years of the project, I asked everyone to save the little bits and pieces and all the selvedges because I could make them into something useable. I think I was planning, at the time, to make another snowflake rug.

With all the crazy colors, and inspired by the current jelly roll rug fad, perhaps I should have crafted a new mandala rug instead...

I just added a significant amount of blue snowflake fleece selvedges to the collection after making matching Christmas fleece jammies for Lizard and myself. I've made tarn (yarn made of T-shirt strips), plarn (yarn made of plastic bags, and fabric selvedges "yarn". I was trying to find out if anyone had given fabric or fleece selvedge yarn a name. "Farn" and "sarn" sound pretty weird to me! All I could find in my limited search was denim selvedge yarn (which I've not made)(YET!!!). So I guess "selvedge yarn" will have to do for now.

I decided I didn't want these selvedges hanging out and taking up space in the stash anymore, and Valentine's Day is literally just around the corner. So perhaps I could craft something hearty and fast before getting back to my Painterly Petals WIP!

You may do whatever you'd like with rugs you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 29 inches across, 29 inches from top to bottom
Materials: Approximately 34 yards of selvedges or fabric cut into approximately 1-inch strips to make "yarn", size Q crochet hook, scissors, sewing machine and/or sewing needle, sewing thread

Fleece Selvedges Heart Rug Instructions

Make "yarn" by sewing, tying or looping strips into one extremely long piece. (I machine-stitched my ends together.) For convenience and to prevent tangled messes, roll "yarn" into ball as you go.

NOTE: This project is worked in one continuous round; do not join at the end of each round. This project also is designed to be whatever size you want. Keep going until you reach the desired size or until you run out of selvedge yarn.

TIP: Use worsted weight yarn and a size G hook to make an adorable mug rug.

mug rugs with my avocado pit-dyed yarn

Ch 16.

Round 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 6 ch, 3 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 6 ch, 3 sc in final ch, then continue working back on opposite side of ch, 1 sc in each of next 5 ch, sk next ch, draw up loop through 3/sc inc (to minimize hole in work), sk next ch and draw up loop through next ch, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook (1 dec made)(heart point made), 1 sc in each of next 5 ch, 2 sc in same sp as starting sc.

Round 2: 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 7 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, sk next sc, pull up loop through Round 1 dec, sk next sc and draw up loop through next sc, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc.

Round 3: 3 sc next sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 9 sc, [2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc] 3 times, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, sk next sc, draw up loop through Round 2 dec, sk next sc, draw up loop through next sc, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc.

Round 4: 3 sc in next sc, [1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 2 times, 1 sc in each of next 8 sc, [2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc] 3 times, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, sk next sc, draw up loop through Round 3 dec, sk next sc, draw up loop through next sc, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc.

If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 5: 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 12 sc, 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 12 sc, [2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc] 2 times, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, sk next sc, draw up loop through Round 3 dec, sk next sc, draw up loop through next sc, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc.

Round 6: [2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc] 3 times, 1 sc in each of next 12 sc, (for mug rug, 1 sc in next sc; invisible bind off, weave in ends), (for rug) 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 12 sc.

Round 7-10 (or desired size): Continue working sc around, working 3 inc evenly spaced on each heart top curve, working the dec at the center top and working 3 sc into bottom point. Upon reaching desired size, continue working sc to bottom point. Work 1 sc into bottom point, do invisible bind (linked below in finishing instructions), bind off. Weave in ends

Finish: When I reached the end of crocheting my rug, I used the invisible finish, then tucked the fleece end into the back of the nearest stitch and hand-stitched it in place. I also wove the starting fleece tail into the back side of the rug and stitched it into place with a few hand stitches.

Linking up with Alycia Quilts and Confessions of a Fabric Addict.

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