Snowflake Monday

Mother's Day is just a couple of weeks away now. I was trying to think of a project that could double as a Mother's Day gift, and the only thing I could think of this time around was a striped snowflake pattern I started last summer.

There are many thread snowflake variations I'm still working to finish, so late last night I decided to divide the 9-page (so far) pattern into two. That way, crocheters have enough time to finish this week's pattern in time for Mother's Day. My blue and white dish cloth snowflakes are going to my mom in the mail this week! (Blue is her favorite color and the main color in her kitchen.)

Today's pattern features the worsted weight cotton yarn version of this pattern, and in next week's thread version, I'll share why this pattern got the name Many Thunders instead of Buttonhole.


Many Thunders Dish Cloth Instructions

Finished Size: 17 inches from point to point
Materials: 70-grams each cotton worsted yarn in 2 colors will supply just enough yarn for two dishcloths in opposite color schemes with a tiny bit of each left over; if working stripes of different colors, small amounts of more than two colors may be used; size I crochet hook; optional sewing needle and thread to match main color

TIP: There are a lot of ends to weave in on this project. To prevent having to go back and weave in ends at completion of project, weave in ends as you go. Contrast color ends are very easy to bury at start of each new main color round by working 5/dc groups over ends.

Round 1: With Color A (main color), ch 6, sl st in 5th ch from hook; repeat from * 4 times; ch 1, sl st in 1st ch of starting ch 6, ch 2, 1 tr in sl st to form 6th ch 5 loop.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in same loop, * 3 dc in next ch 5 loop, ch 3, 3 dc in same loop; repeat from * around 4 times; 3 dc in next ch loop, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off.

Round 3: With Color B (contrast color), 1 sc in any ch 3 point, * ch 4, 1 sc between next 2 3/dc groups, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 10, sl st in 10th ch from hook; 1 sc in same ch 3 point; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat; sl st in starting sc; bind off.

Round 4: With Color A, 5 dc in any ch 4 sp just left of ch 10 loop, 5 dc in next ch 4 sp, ch 3, * sk over (and behind) next ch 10 loop, 5 dc in next ch 4 sp; 5 dc in next ch 4 sp, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in starting dc; bind off.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 5: With Color B, 1 sc in any ch 3 point, ch 3, 1 sc in same point, * ch 4, 1 sc between next 2 5/dc groups, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch 3 point, ch 3, 1 sc in same point, ch 10 (you don't have to sl st to make ch 10 loops from this round on), 1 sc in same point, ch 3, 1 sc in same point; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last 2 sc and ch 3 of final repeat; sl st in starting sc; bind off.
NOTE: If desired, you may pull ch 10 loops on this round from behind through ch 10 loops of Round 3 to see what the chained loops will look like. The chained chains may not stay put as you work the following rounds, but that's okay. It's not ruined if the chained chains come undone. All the chain loops may be chained (or rechained) after finishing Round 8.




Round 6: With Color A, 3 dc in any ch 3 sp just left of ch 10 loop, * 5 dc in each of next 2 ch 4 sp, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, sk over (and behind) next ch 10 loop, 3 dc in next ch 3 sp; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last 3 dc of final repeat; sl st in starting dc; bind off.

Round 7: With Color B, 1 sc in any ch 3 point, * ch 4, 1 sc between next 3/dc group and next 5/dc group, ch 4, 1 sc between next 2 5/dc groups, ch 4, 1 sc between next 5/dc group and next 3/dc group, ch 4, 1 dc in next ch 3 point, ch 10, 1 sc in same sp; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat; sl st in starting sc; bind off.

Round 8: With Color A, 5 dc in any ch 4 sp just left of ch 10 loop, 5 dc in each of next 3 ch 4 sp, [ch 6, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 9, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 6, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch (3-pronged tip made)], * 5 dc in each of next 4 ch 4 loops, [ch 6, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 9, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 6, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch (3-pronged tip made)]; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in starting dc; bind off. Weave in ends if not already done.
NOTE: Optionally, you may secure tri-pronged tips as you go by pre-chaining chain loops, pulling first prong of tri-prong through Round 7 ch 10 loop, working 2nd sc of middle prong by pulling yarn for bring up loop around back of Round 7 ch 10 loop and pull-through loop back through ch 10 loop as shown below, working third prong and then pulling loop on hook off hook and pulling loop back out of ch 10 loop to begin working next dc as shown below.


Work tip through Round 7 ch 10 loop.


Work 2nd sc of 2nd prong around ch 10 loop to secure tip.


Work remainder of tip through Round 7 ch 10 loop.


Pull yarn and loop on hook back through ch 10 loop to work next set of dc stitches.


secured tip
Finish: Pull Round 5 ch 10 loops through Round 3 ch 10 loops from behind. Pull Round 7 ch 10 loops through Round 5 ch 10 loops from behind. Pull Round 8 tri-pronged tips through Round 7 ch 10 loops from behind. If desired, secure tri-pronged tips in place by sewing a few stitches through layers of Round 7 loops and tips with thread to match main color.

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Snowflake Monday

NOTE: Formal fundraising on Snowcatcher has been paused. I haven't had time to create a new snowflake pattern booklet, and we don't know if or when we will be able to participate in organized charity rides again. If things favorably change, I will announce such in a new Snowflake Monday blog post. In the meantime, the previous eight booklets are still available, and I will do my best to respond to requests for them in a timely manner.

This year's PDF snowflake pattern booklet is ready! Featured are three amigurumi snowflakes I don't think will ever be published on my blog because I want our contributors to have something special no one else has.

In 2012 I got to ride the Colorado-Wyoming Chapter of the National Multiple Sclerosis BikeMS event, affectionately and old foggily known as the MS150, as a High Roller for the first time ever, which meant I didn't have to wait in line for the porta potties at rest stops. Joy doesn't even begin to describe what this meant to me!

I raised the fifth highest amount on my team in 2011, and what made this special is most of my teammates were employees of then title sponsor Great-West, and they received corporate matching funds. The four people on the team who raised more money than me had corporate assistance. I didn’t. I had only crocheters, a couple of portrait recipients and a few ice cream eaters backing me! (Newmont Mining has stepped up as title sponsor this year, which is a huge change for my team. Team Great-West won't be first out the gate this year, but I'll bet The Lizard still pedals fast enough to beat almost all the riders into Fort Collins on Day 1!)


The Lizard will be riding this year as a Premium Pedaler for the first time ever. He received a discount on his registration fee, and he gets a fancy number color to wear during the ride. Because he will ride the entire 75 miles each day in less time than it takes to digest his breakfast, he doesn't really care whether he gets special access to "green rooms" or not. His goal every year is to be one of the first riders to reach Fort Collins, which he happily achieves each year. Nevertheless, his Premium Pedaler status is making him as happy as my "no lines" reward is making me!

We reached these fund-raising honors thanks to generous donors all year long last year who pushed us up and over the top of our stated goals. Together, we raised more than $5,000, and we thank you for helping us help those who are afflicted with multiple sclerosis.

For those who wonder why I raise money for two people instead of just myself, I work for a large company with generous employees who enjoy contributing to charitable causes. The Lizard is second of a two-man outfit with limited client contact and no internet access during the day.

Outside his job, my husband not only maintains both of my bikes (and all of his) (and sometimes even my friends' bikes), he helps me train and prepare for big rides. The Lizard also doesn't subscribe to traditional household chore descriptions where the wife does all the upkeep and makes sure dinner's on the table when the husband gets home. Home more often than me and often earlier than me, he bears more than his fair share of all housework, and he is one fantastic cook. He makes dinner most weeknights. Then cleans up afterward.

Get this: he knows how to separate the laundry and mend! Plus, he lovingly puts up with snowflakes all over the house all year long. I still hope to get him designing snowflakes one day, but until then, I am honored to help out with his fund-raising. It's a great way to show him how much I appreciate everything he does for me.


This year's PDF pattern booklet features 20 of my most popular designs on Ravelry as of January 2012 (that weren't already published in last year's booklet), plus three new patterns never before published. My Little Bear and Blanca Peak Snowflake alone are worth a tax-deductible donation, in my opinion, but the booklet contains much more. (Yes, I finally wrote a pattern for a tiny bear!) I expect there will be Little Bear knockoffs as soon as the cover of my PDF booklet makes the internet rounds, but the original idea came from right here at Snowcatcher. Because the PDF booklet includes three amigurumi snowflake patterns, I've included all my amigurumi tips in the PDF booklet. Currently, I am not planning to ever publish the amigurumi snowflake patterns on my blog or anywhere else.







Because next week is a holiday beloved by many and because it takes a lot of love on both ends of a fund-raising drive such as this, I ♥ You is an appropriate name for this week’s heartflake.

This is a modification to my Candy Corn Snowflake. The idea has been bouncing around in my head since Halloween because the Candy Corn Snowflake was absolutely singing out to be made lovely in filet and/or beads.

Worked with cotton yarn and a larger crochet hook, this heartflake makes yet another great seasonal hot pad!


I also made this heartflake with size 50 thread and a size 14 crochet hook. I blocked it by lightly spraying water onto the pinned heartflake and allowing to dry. I cut two circles of leftover fabric one inch bigger than the heartflake. I attached the heartflake to one, then sewed both circles together, right sides together, leaving a small opening. I turned the sachet outside right and stuffed lightly with aromatic cinnamon potpourri (spent panty hose make a great lining for the potpourri before inserting into a sachet), then closed the opening and attached a ribbon and a decorative crocheted flower before hanging. Any snowflake may be converted into a sachet this way.

You may do whatever you'd like with heartflakes you make from these patterns, but you may not sell or republish the patterns. Thanks, and happy Valentine's Day!


Finished Size: 7.5 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, liquid starch, glitter, small container for dipping snowflakes into starch, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line; for beaded snowflakes, 144 beads (I used 6/0 pearlescent glass beads, and I dabbed the crochet thread with fingernail polish and allowed it to dry thoroughly to make bead-stringing easier. The beads were not harmed or dulled by the liquid starch.)


White I Heart You Heartflake Instructions

Ch 48; taking care not to twist chain, sl st into 1st ch. If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 1: *1 sc next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, [yo and draw up loop through next ch, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook (3 dc dec made), 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 1 ch; repeat from * around 5 times; sl st in starting sc.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3 * 2 dc in next sc, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 5 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, , ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times, [ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc] 2 times, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times, [ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc] 2 times, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 7: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, [1 dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, [1 dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc and in next ch 1 sp, [ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp] 2 times, 1 dc in next dc, [1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1] 2 times, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp and in each of next 3 dc, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc and in next ch 1 sp, [ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp] 2 times, 1 dc in next dc, [1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1] 2 times, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp and in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 9: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 18 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 18 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 10: 1 sc in same st as sl st, * 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 trtr in each of next 2 sc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 trtr in each of next 2 sc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 5, 1 sc in 5th ch from hook, ch 6, sl st in sc, ch 4, sl st in sc (tri picot made), ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc in next dc; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.


Beaded Pink I Heart You Heartflake Instructions

String 144 beads onto thread. If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Ch 48; taking care not to twist chain, sl st into 1st ch.

Round 1: *1 sc next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, [yo and draw up loop through next ch, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook (3 dc dec made), 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 1 ch; repeat from * around 5 times; sl st in starting sc.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3 * 2 dc in next sc, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, pull up one bead and work into next dc so that it faces the front of snowflake (use same technique for each bead throughout snowflake so all will be positioned similarly), 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, pull up one bead and work into next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 5 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in next dc, [work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc] 5 times, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, [work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc] 5 times, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 7: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, [work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc] 7 times, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, [work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc] 7 times, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc same st as sl st, [1 dc in next dc, work bead into next dc] 3 times, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, [work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc] 3 times, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, [1 dc in next dc, work bead into next dc] 3 times, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, [work bead into next dc, 1 dc in next dc] 3 times, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 9: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, work bead into next dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 10: 1 sc in same st as sl st, * 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 trtr in each of next 2 sc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 trtr in each of next 2 sc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, ch 6, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, [1 dc in next ch], ch 4, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook and in next ch, 1 dc in top of next [dc], 1 dc in bottom of same [dc], sl st in next ch (heart picot made, photo tutorial here; this heart picot ends with a sl st instead of a sc), ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc in next dc; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.


Red I Heart You Heartflake Instructions

Ch 48; taking care not to twist chain, sl st into 1st ch. If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 1: *1 sc next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, [yo and draw up loop through next ch, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook (3 dc dec made), 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 1 ch; repeat from * around 5 times; sl st in starting sc.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3 * 2 dc in next sc, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 5 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 7: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 11 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 11 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 9: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 1 dc in each of next 6 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 10: 1 sc in same st as sl st, * 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 trtr in each of next 2 sc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 tr in next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 tr in next ch 1 sp, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 trtr in each of next 2 sc, 1 dtr in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 12, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, ch 8, sl st in 1st ch of ch 12 (open heart picot made but must be shaped during stiffening), ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, sk ch 3, 1 sc in next dc; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pour liquid starch into container. Dip heartflake into starch, allowing liquid to saturate thread. Gently squeeze out excess and make sure all points have been soaked. Pin heartflake to pizza box. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash container and hands thoroughly. Allow heartflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel heartflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch heartflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Heartflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

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Snowflake Monday

Pattern updated as of 16 January 2012.
One of my bosses loves candy corn.


You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: 5.25 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread in three colors (white, cream or ecru, orange and yellow for traditional; ecru, red and light brown for candy apple; ecru, orange and black or dark brown for chocolate; yellow, orange and brown for caramel; or white, red and green for Christmas; white, pink and red for Valentine's Day; pastels for Easter*), size 8 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line


* or, make up your own color scheme...
NOTE: I did not glitter these flakes. Made with worsted weight cotton yarn, these Candy Corn Snowflakes also make awesome dish cloths.

Candy Corn Snowflake Instructions

Ch 48; taking care not to twist chain, sl st into 1st ch.

Round 1: With Color 1 (candy tip), 1 sc in same ch as sl st, *ch 3, sk 1 ch, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, [yo and draw up loop through next ch, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook (3 dc dec made), 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch; repeat from * around five times, ending with ch 3 and omitting last sc of final round; sl st in starting sc.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next sc, 1 dc in each of next 4 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last 2 dc and ch 3 of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last 3 dc and ch 3 of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 8 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last 4 dc and ch 3 of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off.

Round 5: With Color 2 (candy middle), 2 dc in 1st dc of any 11/dc group, 1 dc in each of next 10 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 10 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in starting dc.

Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same dc, 1 dc in each of next 12 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 12 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 7: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same dc, 1 dc in each of next 14 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 14 dc, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off.

Round 8: With Color 3 (candy bottom), 2 dc in 1st dc of any 17/dc group, 1 dc in each of next 16 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 16 st, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in starting dc.

Round 9: *Ch 2, 1 dc in same dc, 1 dc in each of next 18 dc, ch 2, sl st in next ch, ch 2, sl st in next dc; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in base of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.








Candy Corn Finger Puppet

Finished Size: 1.75 inches tall
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread in three colors, size 8 crochet hook, sewing thread, sewing needle, two beads for eyes (I used 6/0 seed beads), or, if the finger puppet will be used by tiny tots who might accidentally ingest the eyes, you may use a permanent market to draw eyes and a smile on the puppet, or two googly eyes

This bonus amigur-yummy project is worked in the round, and rounds are not joined unless otherwise instructed. Stitch count is not critical but is included for convenience. And yes, I've made some of my candy corn crochet in the wrong color order. It wasn't intentional. Thankfully, my two-year-old neighbor and my boss like them anyway. Misspelling amigurumi was entirely intentional. Crafter's license.

If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

With Color 1 (candy tip), ch 4.

Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 3 sc in next sc; turning work and working in bottom side of ch, 1 sc in next ch (opposite of 1 sc on top side). (Total of 8 sc in Round.)

Round 2: Working in Round 1 stitches, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc. Use stitch marker here if you need to keep track of rounds and don't want to count. (Total of 14 sc in Round.)

Round 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc (increasing 2 stitches on each end of oval). (Total of 18 sc in Round.)

Round 4: 1 sc in each sc around, increasing 1 stitch on each end of oval. (Total of 20 sc in Round.)

Round 5: 1 sc in each sc around.

Round 6: 1 sc in each sc around, increasing 1 st on each end of oval. (Total of 22 sc in Round.)

Rounds 7-8: 1 sc in each sc around.

Round 9: 1 sc in each sc around, increasing 1 stitch on each end of oval; sl st into next sc; bind off. (Total of 24 sc in Round.)

Round 10: With Color 2 (candy middle), 1 sc in each sc around.

Rounds 11-12: 1 sc in each sc around.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 13: 1 sc in each sc around, increasing 1 stitch on each end of oval. (Total of 26 sc in Round.)

Round 14: 1 sc in each sc around.

Round 15: 1 sc in each sc around; sl st into next sc; bind off.

Round 16: With Color 3 (candy bottom), 1 sc in each sc around.

Round 17: 1 sc in each sc around.

Round 18: 1 sc in each sc around, increasing 1 stitch on each end of oval. (Total of 28 sc in Round.)

Round 19: 1 sc in each sc around; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Sew bead eyes into place. (Or draw eyes on with permanent marker.) Place finger puppet on finger, and talk in a high-pitched voice without moving your lips while dancing, tipping and marching puppet. Watch children smile and laugh. Take lots of pictures! Happy Halloween!

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Snowflake Monday

All my family and close friends have always known I keep snowflakes around my house all year long. They know dinner in the middle of July will be served on snowflake plates atop wintery or snowflake placemats. They know the snowflake napkins will be enclosed in snowflake napkin rings. They know their beverages will be sipped from snowflake mugs or glasses. The know ambiance lighting might be provided by snowflake nightlights. And they know I have snowflakes hanging on the windows.

This year, they are in for a real treat, not only because the placemats, hot pads and dish cloths are freshly handmade snowflakes, but they might be receiving a set of their own come Christmastime!


Today's patterns, based upon last week's Coxcomb Peak Snowflake, is so much fun, I have yet another variation coming next week. Hope that keeps your curiosity keen!


The first cotton yarn project I made with this pattern was inspired by a few skeins of imported cotton yarn gifted to me by a destashing co-worker. I named the dish cloth after Redcliff, which sits just across the saddle from Coxcomb, both shown above, because, well, we don't have a Watermelon Peak in Colorado, and the color of watermelon is close to red...


This snowflake has a built-in buttonhole or hanging loop on any point. Just sew a button on the completed dish cloth, and hook Redcliff to your fridge or oven.

The second project I made with a larger hook is named after what kept happening the entire time I was making all of these snowflakes, from Coxcomb to El Punto. The Middle Fork of the Cimarron is a dreamy place for me, and I'd get so caught up in romantic flashbacks and just plain fun memories as I was working, I'd often have to frog a row or two and sometimes more because I wasn't concentrating and created big, showy boo-boos.


The third project, which isn't quite snowflake-shaped but hopefully a fun addition to the kitchen and dining room anyway, is named after the basin that inspired this series. And because you put forks on a placemat. That's my humor for the day. Hope my weak attempt at least made you grin!



My favorite set of placemats, of course, has the variegated denim blue edging, but I am extremely pleased with how the ones edged with tiny flecks of Christmas colors turned out, too. Those will make awesome Christmas gifts.

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: Daydreamer Hot Pad, 14 inches from point to point; Redcliff Dish Cloth, 16 inches from point to point; Middle Fork Placemat, 14 inches tall and 21.5 inches wide
Materials:
Hot Pad: One 56 g skein worsted weight cotton yarn, small amount of contrasting color if desired
Dish Cloth: Two 56 g skeins worsted weight cotton yarn, one in contrasting color, if desired
Placemat: Two 56 g skeins worsted weight cotton yarn, half 56 g skein of contrasting color, if desired (1 cone of white and 2 skeins of contrast will make 4 placemats)
All Projects: Size H crochet hook, optional button for dish cloth, if desired



Daydreamer Hot Pad Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1 dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Pull magic circle tight.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc between 2/dc groups directly below; ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 3), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 5: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 5), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 7: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 3 times, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, ch 4, st st in top of dc just worked, ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 2 times, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 8: Sl st in next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp in main body of flake, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 2 times, 1 dc in next ch 4 loop, [ch 3, 1 dc in same loop] 3 times, sk next ch 1 sp, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last 2 dc on final repeat; bind off. Weave in ends.



Redcliff Dish Cloth Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1 dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc between 2/dc groups directly below; ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 3), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 5: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 5), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 7: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 5 times, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 5 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Bind off here if making a round in complimentary color. Do not bind off if making solid color dish cloth.

Round 8: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 7), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. If working in complimentary color, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around using chainless dc start and bind off. (See chainless dc start with new color tutorial here.)

Round 9: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 4 times, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 4 times, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, ch 4, st st in top of dc just worked, ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 3 times, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. If a second color was used for Round 8, start this round with chainless dc start instead of sl st and ch 3 start.

Round 10: Sl st in next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp in main body of flake, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times, 1 dc in next ch 4 loop, [ch 3, 1 dc in same loop] 3 times, sk next ch 1 sp, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 4 times; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last 2 dc on final repeat; bind off. Weave in ends.



Middle Fork Placemat Instructions

Note: This project starts like a flat piece not worked in the round on the first row, with the second round going all the way around the first row on both sides to become in the round.

Ch 19.

Row 1: 1 hdc in 5th ch from hook, *sk 1 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, ch 1; repeat from * to end of ch for a total of 8 hdc and 8 eyelets. Do not turn.
Begin working in the round on Round 2.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 7 dc over post of final hdc of Row 1 to form half circle, [2 dc in next eyelet] 6 times; 8 dc in last eyelet to form half circle; [2 dc in next eyelet] 6 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Do not turn on this or any of the rounds that follow.

Round 3: Sl st in next dc and between same dc and next dc; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 6 times; sk 2 dc; [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc; sk next 2 dc; repeat from * 7 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 5: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 1 time; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 9 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 9 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 6: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 7: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 3 times; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 11 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 8: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 9: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 5 times; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 13 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 13 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 10: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 11:>: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 2 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook (picot made), ch 1; repeat from * 4 times [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 3 times, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 7 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1; repeat from * 7 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 3 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 3 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 7 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked, ch 1; repeat from * 7 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. If working final round in complimentary color, bind off here and begin next round in same sp with 2nd color working 2 dc using chainless dc start instead of ch 2 and 1 dc in same sp. (See chainless dc start with new color tutorial here.)

Round 12: Sl st into same opening; ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, [ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp]; 2 dc in each of next 3 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot, [[ch 3, 1 dc in same sp]] 3 times; sk ch 1 space of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 3 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 7 ch 1 sp; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 (or 1st dc if working in complimentary color); bind off. Weave in ends.


Finish: To hang dish cloth, sew button to 6th round below one snowflake point if desired. Or just hang by point on hook or cabinet knob. Set the table, and have a lovely dinner!

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