All my family and close friends have always known I keep snowflakes around my house all year long. They know dinner in the middle of July will be served on snowflake plates atop wintery or snowflake placemats. They know the snowflake napkins will be enclosed in snowflake napkin rings. They know their beverages will be sipped from snowflake mugs or glasses. The know ambiance lighting might be provided by snowflake nightlights. And they know I have snowflakes hanging on the windows.
This year, they are in for a real treat, not only because the placemats, hot pads and dish cloths are freshly handmade snowflakes, but they might be receiving a set of their own come Christmastime!
Today's patterns, based upon last week's Coxcomb Peak Snowflake, is so much fun, I have yet another variation coming next week. Hope that keeps your curiosity keen!
The first cotton yarn project I made with this pattern was inspired by a few skeins of imported cotton yarn gifted to me by a destashing co-worker. I named the dish cloth after Redcliff, which sits just across the saddle from Coxcomb, both shown above, because, well, we don't have a Watermelon Peak in Colorado, and the color of watermelon is close to red...
This snowflake has a built-in buttonhole or hanging loop on any point. Just sew a button on the completed dish cloth, and hook Redcliff to your fridge or oven.
The second project I made with a larger hook is named after what kept happening the entire time I was making all of these snowflakes, from Coxcomb to El Punto. The Middle Fork of the Cimarron is a dreamy place for me, and I'd get so caught up in romantic flashbacks and just plain fun memories as I was working, I'd often have to frog a row or two and sometimes more because I wasn't concentrating and created big, showy boo-boos.
The third project, which isn't quite snowflake-shaped but hopefully a fun addition to the kitchen and dining room anyway, is named after the basin that inspired this series. And because you put forks on a placemat. That's my humor for the day. Hope my weak attempt at least made you grin!
My favorite set of placemats, of course, has the variegated denim blue edging, but I am extremely pleased with how the ones edged with tiny flecks of Christmas colors turned out, too. Those will make awesome Christmas gifts.
You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!
Finished Size: Daydreamer Hot Pad, 14 inches from point to point; Redcliff Dish Cloth, 16 inches from point to point; Middle Fork Placemat, 14 inches tall and 21.5 inches wide
Materials:
Hot Pad: One 56 g skein worsted weight cotton yarn, small amount of contrasting color if desired
Dish Cloth: Two 56 g skeins worsted weight cotton yarn, one in contrasting color, if desired
Placemat: Two 56 g skeins worsted weight cotton yarn, half 56 g skein of contrasting color, if desired (1 cone of white and 2 skeins of contrast will make 4 placemats)
All Projects: Size H crochet hook, optional button for dish cloth, if desired
Daydreamer Hot Pad Instructions
Make magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1 dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Pull magic circle tight.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc between 2/dc groups directly below; ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 3), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 5: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 5), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 7: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 3 times, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, ch 4, st st in top of dc just worked, ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 2 times, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 8: Sl st in next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp in main body of flake, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 2 times, 1 dc in next ch 4 loop, [ch 3, 1 dc in same loop] 3 times, sk next ch 1 sp, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last 2 dc on final repeat; bind off. Weave in ends.
Redcliff Dish Cloth Instructions
Make magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1 dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Pull magic circle tight.
Round 2: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc between 2/dc groups directly below; ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 3), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 5: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 5), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 7: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 5 times, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 5 times, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3. Bind off here if making a round in complimentary color. Do not bind off if making solid color dish cloth.
Round 8: Sl st into next ch 1 sp (immediately next to final sl st of Round 7), ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. If working in complimentary color, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around using chainless dc start and bind off. (See chainless dc start with new color tutorial here.)
Round 9: Sl st into top of next dc, sl st between 2/dc groups directly below, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, *ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 4 times, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 4 times, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1] 3 times, ch 4, st st in top of dc just worked, ch 1, [1 dc between next 2/dc groups] 3 times, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. If a second color was used for Round 8, start this round with chainless dc start instead of sl st and ch 3 start.
Round 10: Sl st in next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp in main body of flake, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 3 times, 1 dc in next ch 4 loop, [ch 3, 1 dc in same loop] 3 times, sk next ch 1 sp, [2 dc in next ch 1 sp] 4 times; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last 2 dc on final repeat; bind off. Weave in ends.
Middle Fork Placemat Instructions
Note: This project starts like a flat piece not worked in the round on the first row, with the second round going all the way around the first row on both sides to become in the round.
Ch 19.
Row 1: 1 hdc in 5th ch from hook, *sk 1 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, ch 1; repeat from * to end of ch for a total of 8 hdc and 8 eyelets. Do not turn.
Begin working in the round on Round 2.
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 7 dc over post of final hdc of Row 1 to form half circle, [2 dc in next eyelet] 6 times; 8 dc in last eyelet to form half circle; [2 dc in next eyelet] 6 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Do not turn on this or any of the rounds that follow.
Round 3: Sl st in next dc and between same dc and next dc; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 6 times; sk 2 dc; [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, sk 2 dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc, [1 dc, ch 1] 3 times between just skipped dc and next dc; sk next 2 dc; repeat from * 7 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 4: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 5: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 1 time; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 9 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 2 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 9 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 6: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 7: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 3 times; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 11 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 11 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 8: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 9: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 5 times; [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 13 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 6 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 13 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 10: Sl st in same opening, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 11:>: Sl st in next dc and between 2/dc groups; ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, *1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1; repeat from * 2 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook (picot made), ch 1; repeat from * 4 times [1 dc between next 2/dc groups, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1]; repeat from * 3 times, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 7 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked (picot made), ch 1; repeat from * 7 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 3 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 3 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 1; repeat from * 4 times; repeat [ ]; repeat from * 7 times; 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 4, sl st in top of dc just worked, ch 1; repeat from * 7 times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3. If working final round in complimentary color, bind off here and begin next round in same sp with 2nd color working 2 dc using chainless dc start instead of ch 2 and 1 dc in same sp. (See chainless dc start with new color tutorial here.)
Round 12: Sl st into same opening; ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, [ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 7, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp]; 2 dc in each of next 3 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot, [[ch 3, 1 dc in same sp]] 3 times; sk ch 1 space of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 3 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat [ ]; 2 dc in each of next 8 ch 1 sp, sk next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 4 picot; repeat [[ ]]; sk ch 1 sp of picot and next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 7 ch 1 sp; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 (or 1st dc if working in complimentary color); bind off. Weave in ends.
Finish: To hang dish cloth, sew button to 6th round below one snowflake point if desired. Or just hang by point on hook or cabinet knob. Set the table, and have a lovely dinner!
