Hooking Paradise

I haven't had as much sewing machine time as I would like, but my hook(s) has been busy. I just love portable projects I can take along to work on while waiting for appointments, etc.

Tweet

Wholly Cowl

No, it's not holy and it's not holey, but the punny name is kind of cute (to me), so I couldn't resist. I'm still (since 2016!!!) highly attracted to the self-striping yarns by Red Heart, especially in the bright colorways available. The fun part (for me) is coming up with just the right number of stitches to make the stripes perfect or close-to-perfect for any given project. Today's pattern is a cowl I actually came up with way back when there were only three different colors in the new line of yarn. This cowl works up so fast, and did I mention the bright and cheery neon colorway to soften winter's blow?


It is important to note that not all Red Heart Stripe colorways are created equal. If the stripes in the colorway don't look even, they aren't going to work up evenly in a pattern, either. They will still make stripes, but not even stripes as shown in the Neon version of today's pattern.


I'm tempted to frog this Parrot colorway cowl to make something else. I've needed a new pair of warm leg warmers for a couple of years now but just hadn't decided on the perfect yarn yet. I'm almost thinking the Parrot colorway and the very same stitch will make perfect leg warmers. And yet, how will the uneven stripes look in a finished cowl?!? I love the colors, so I might just go ahead and finish to see how it looks. I can always get more yarn to make new leg warmers...


The stitch I used for this cowl also works up nicely in non-striping yarn. It has great texture and warmth in solid colors, as well.


Finished Size: approximately 28 inches long and 7 inches wide
Materials: 1 5-ounce skein worsted yarn (I used Red Heart in Neon Stripes colorway), size H crochet hook (or size required to obtain correct gauge), tapestry needle
Gauge: 15 pattern st=4 inches; 11 rows of pattern st=4 inches

Wholly Cowl Instructions

Ch 24.

NOTE: I chained 24, pinched the yarn to hold my spot, unraveled and measured how much yarn 24 chains and tail take, then measured 33 inches (my gauge) back from the start of the first black section of yarn to begin my chain. An alternative is to work the chain and the 1st row with solid black (or solid to coordinate with the colorway you are using), then join the striped skein at the very beginning of a color change for the 2nd Row.

Row 1: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 22 ch; ch 1, turn.

Row 2: [1 sc in next sc, 1 tr in next sc] 11 times, 1 sc in next sc; ch 3, turn.

Row 3: [1 tr in next sc, 1 sc in next tr] 11 times, 1 tr in next sc; ch 1, turn.

Rows 4-70 (or desired length): Repeat rows 2 and 3; bind off leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle and long tail, bind starting Row to final Row using a whip stitch. Cowl may be twisted one half time for a mobius cowl, if desired. OR...

Row 71: 1 sc in each st across; ch 1, turn.

Row 72: Attach top of cowl to bottom (with half a twist if mobius cowl if desired) by slip stitching or whip stitching across both top and bottom, catching 1 sc from each end in each sl st; bind off. Weave in ends.

STRIPE NOTE: To preserve even striped scheme, I worked 1 or 2 dc or dtr at the end of each Row as needed instead of tr to force colors to end in the proper place. Changing the end stitch on each Row (I think I did it probably 22 times out of 70 Rows) does not affect the texture or appearance of final cowl. Also, two skeins may be used instead of one for a longer cowl, or two or more skeins may be used without joining the ends to make a scarf instead of a cowl. If not using a self-striping yarn, cowl may be made wider or more narrow, depending upon user preference.


Finish: This pattern in most cases does not require blocking, but should the crocheter desire, I've included instructions for blocking acrylic yarn.

To block an acrylic cowl, preheat steam iron and fill with distilled water (or use spray bottle to mist scarf lightly). Shape cowl on ironing board. Hold iron 1 to 2 inches above cowl and move up and down the length without touching iron to yarn. Allow steam to contact cowl as much as possible, but be careful not to burn yourself on that same steam. After two or three generous passes, turn off iron and set aside safely. Allow Wholly cowl to cool.

Place cowl around neck or just hang it over a bed post. The colors are too beautiful to stick in the closet!

Tweet

Snowflake Monday

I recently made my first indigo vat. I've been apprehensive because the initial steps of the process were, well, um, unsavory. When I first learned about indigo way back in about seventh grade, I wondered who the heck peed on his mom's weaving, enabling her to discover this ancient dye process.

When my adopted son was about 8 years old, and perhaps all the way until, well, perhaps even now, I realized boys will be boys. It's not always fun, it's not always squeaky clean, and if there's a way they can play with their pee, boy, do they. Little snots! Have you ever witnessed a boy (or a man) drawing in the snow with pee??? I am tempted to believe they love this more than football and golf!

In the long run, I couldn't coax myself to process raw indigo materials with one of the required ingredients... um, urine. So I bought pre-reduced indigo crystals. Someone else did all the dirty work. I added water and a couple more chemicals, and I now am absolutely addicted to indigo dyeing, even though it smells like pee while I'm mixing and dyeing. The vat is outside in the open air, and I so far have not forgotten to wear my protective mask while working with indigo. When I'm done dyeing with indigo, the cotton yarn goes into the washer with the jeans and industrial strength detergent, then a quick trip through the dryer with lovely scented softener. The indigo yarn ends up beautiful, soft and fresh-smelling.

I've been having so much fun all summer long dyeing my own thread and yarn, I may never buy commercially colored yarn or thread again! Onion skins, hibiscus and alkanet have been my favorite dyes to work with, but now indigo may have claimed the top spot. I absolutely LOVE my first batch of indigo yarn!!!


Indigo was the most significant natural dye by the end of the 19th century, but it has been around for thousands of years. In 1969, denim was described as one of the world's oldest fabrics but eternally young. Once a symbol of the working class, denim has become one of the most enduring fashion trends.

Blue is my favorite color, and I've long wondered if I could duplicate the ice wash jeans appearance popular during my younger years on yarn and thread without literally beating up the fiber. On my first indigo dyeing attempt, I got exactly the look I have dreamt about for so long.

Because ice wash is a perfect name for a snowflake, I decided to make a quick and easy hexagon motif with the first hanks of worsted weight cotton yarn I dyed by hand in my indigo vat. (And I am not having any trouble so far remembering to wear my gloves while I work with the indigo.) I might design a more intricate hexagon for worsted weight once I have enough matching hanks to complete a larger project. Right now, I don't think I'll ever get bored with this yarn.

I came up with a snowflakier variation (with picots) for this same motif and worked up join-as-you-go instructions. I joined motifs and made fun projects including today's Ice Wash Snowflake Cowl. I also created a more traditional thread snowflake adaptation.

Autumn and Emma of the Sisters of the Snowflake group on Yahoo had asked if I might consider designing a snowflake specifically for the group. The thread adaptation of this pattern, the Sister Snowflake, will be featured in the Yahoo group, which is free to join and features weekly snowflake crochet-a-longs, project photos and chatter.

You may do whatever you'd like with motifs you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Finished Size: 3.5 inches from point to point for the plain variation; 5 inches from point to point for picot variation
Materials: Approximately 150 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn for the cowl; approximately 8 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn for just one motif; size H crochet hook

Ice Wash Snowflake Cowl Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in ring, * ch 1, 2 dc in ring; repeat from * 4 times; 1 hdc in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 to form final ch 1 sp of Round. Pull magic circle tight, but leave opening big enough to allow stitches inside it to lay flat.

Round 2: 1 sc over hdc just made, ch 3, * 1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 3; repeat from * 4 times; sl st in starting sc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 3: Sl st into next ch 3 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc in same ch 3 sp, * ch 1, 5 dc in next ch 3 sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.
NOTE: To join a second row of motifs, work the join 3 times instead of 2 and work only 3 total unjoined points. When joining to 2 points previously joined, make sure to catch at least 2 strands in the join.

To join more than one motif, follow the instructions below for Round 3 on additional motifs after the first one is complete.

Round 3, Joining Round: Sl st into next ch 3 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc in same ch 3 sp, * ch 1, 5 dc in next ch 3 sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.


For the picot version of the motif, following the instructions below for Round 3.

Round 3: Sl st into next ch 3 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc in same ch 3 sp, * ch 4, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (picot made), ch 1, 5 dc in next ch 3 sp; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.

To join more than one motif, follow the instructions below for Round 3 on additional motifs after the first one is complete.

Round 3, Joining Round: Sl st into next ch 3 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc in same ch 3 sp, * ch 2, 1 sc in picot of 1st snowflake, ch 1, sl st in 2nd ch (immediately before sc) (picot join made), ch 1, 5 dc in next ch 3 sp; repeat from * around 1 time to join next picot on 1st snowflake; ** ch 4, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, 5 dc in next ch 3 sp; repeat from ** around 2 times; ch 4, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.
NOTE: To join a second row of motifs, work the picot join 3 times instead of 2 and work only 3 total picot points that are not joined. When joining to 2 picots previously joined, make sure to catch at least 2 strands in the join.




Finish: For the cowl, I made 18 motifs and joined them in two rows. Cowl also could be made with 3 rows of motifs by making 27 motifs and may be made as wide as desired by making more than 9 motifs for each row of motifs. This project does not require blocking and pinning, but looks much lacier if blocked and pinned.

After making and joining 2, 3 or desired number of rows of 16, 24 or desired number joined motifs, join in a circle by joining 17th (or 25th) motif to one end of row and then the opposite end as shown below. 18th (or 26th and 27th) motif is then joined on 5 points, with only one point free-standing.

Tweet

Cowlin' Around

When KnitPicks came out with its new Chroma fingering yarn, a less-expensive Noro/Mini Mochi knock-off, I was about 30th or 40th (or 300th or 400th...) in the online shopping line, anxious to test it out.

I've tried four different colorways so far, and I like them. I definitely would wear this stuff. The yarn is soft, the colors look close to what you see on the KnitPicks website, and the long color repeats are fun to work with, very inspiring, never boring. The most popular colors can be difficult to get your hands on (such as Midwinter!), but are worth the wait if you've got the time. I've heard the yarn felts well, but I haven't tried felting yet. The urge hasn't bit me.

This cowl was the second test piece I've made with Chroma. MadCrocheter on Ravelry asked if I am going to write the pattern. I hadn't planned to because I've been so busy with other things, but the cowl wasn't difficult to make, so here goes.

The stitch used in this pattern coordinates with Fall Blaze Hat, Susie Socks and Spring Stripes fingerless gloves.

You may do whatever you'd like with the cowls you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!


Size: 30 inches around; 10.5 inches high
Materials: 1 100-gram ball of Chroma fingering yarn or other desired fingering yarn (I used Chroma in the Prism colorway), size B crochet hook

Instructions

This project is worked in the round, with right side toward you.

Ch 200 (or desired length in multiples of 8). Taking care not to twist chain, sl st in starting ch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each ch around for total of 200 (including starting ch 2). Sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *sk 1 ch, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around; sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *sk 1 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of ending 1 dc of final repeat.
Round 4: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), 1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, *sk 3 dc, 1 dc in next 1 dc, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3; repeat from * around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5.
Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next ch 1 sp, *1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp; repeat from * around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Rounds 7-31: Repeat Rounds 2-6 five times or desired length; bind off; weave in ends.

Tweet