Autumn Color

We haven't been able to do much fall color photography the last few years, but I am sure relishing the half day we spent recording the gorgeous hues of autumn at the end of September.

Lizard wanted to ride a mountain trail he used to tackle all the time before his Parkinson's diagnosis. Up to St. Elmo we went! The ride was "steeper and much harder" than he remembered, his words, so we weren't able to do the entire five miles. But what we did do was spectacular, and I hope he can keep riding, even if only a couple of miles at a time, for many years to come!

Fortunately, many rest stops meant many, many photos. Didn't do bad for such a short high altitude visit!!!

Lizard has had such a rough year, thanks to our friend Parky. But he keeps right on fighting, and I'm going to try to keep making wonderful memories with him as long as we possibly can.

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Snowflake Rock Monday

Week 3 of my rock crochet-a-long is underway! Today's rock was inspired by last week's RtR disappointment and fueled by my recent visit to my Ti Light Snowflake to create a white version for my Snowcatcher Snowflake Directory. I often wonder what Ti is up to these days and if she ever managed to live out her dream.

I've also wondered if I might be able to cover a rock with a crocheted bicycle. Because that would be the perfect addition to my garden, right? Initially, I thought I might be able to attach the bike to the rock covering via Irish crochet, but the stitching visually took away too much from the bicycle shape. I completed this project appliqué style instead. I did consider gluing the bike directly onto a rock with permanent glue...

I also considered gluing the bike directly onto the covering, using permanent glue. I think this would work fine, and I would be tempted to turn the rock covering upside down beneath the weight of a rock once the glue dries enough to not drip. This seems like a great way to have the bike dry completely flat, with no warping. However, I opted to sew (by machine) the bike onto the covering before I began the mesh crochet portion of the covering. Feel free to use the method you like best; there is no right or wrong way.

I recently spent some time with my mother-in-law, and she gave me a bag full of crocheted doilies she made before my husband began school. I used to crochet doilies on the bus during my commute to work back in the late '90s. So the doilies from my husband's mom brought back some great memories; I wonder what happened to all my doilies?!? Anyway, it did occur to me while I was working on the rock covering pattern below that I could turn this project into a table runner instead of making a rock covering for the garden, where it surely will sun bleach and fade, likely before the end of this coming summer. But I really want a bicycle rock in the garden. I will try to place it so that it doesn't get as much sun, and maybe the color will last just a tad longer.

Today's pattern isn't for a snowflake. This rock covering is the only way I could think of to make what I saw in my head come to life. Other than Photoshop or AI, of course...

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflake bikes and/or rocks you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 12 inches from wheel to wheel and 7 inches tall (you'll need a BIG rock for this one!!!)
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread in at least 2 colors (second color should be a strong contrast), size 7 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, water soluble school glue for bike stiffening, non-soluble glue for attaching snowflake to rock covering (or whatever surface desired, such as greeting card or poster board), water, rust-proof stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, optional thread for attaching bicycle to rock if desired

Snowbike Instructions

Make 2 Ti Light Snowflakes and set aside.

Ch 90. Taking care not to twist work, sl st in starting ch.

Round 1: To make bike seat, ch 10, 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, draw up loop in next ch and in next ch of ch 10, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook, 1 sc in next ch of bike seat; to make bicycle top tube, 1 sc in each of next 30 ch; to make handlebars, ch 15, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 9 ch, ch 9, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 4 ch, 2 sc in each of next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in same ch as sc just worked into, 1 sc in each of next 5 ch, 2 sc in same ch as 30th sc; to make downtube, 1 sc in each of next 29 ch, 3 sc in next ch; to make seat tube, 1 sc in each of next 29 ch, sl st in next ch; bind off. Weave in ends.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

NOTE: I would either stiffen or pin and spray lightly with water all pieces at this point so they will have the correct shape when you connect them to the rock. If you aren't making a rock and plan to just keep the bike as is, I would stiffen the wheels and the bike body.

Snowbike Rock Wrapper Instructions

Ch 39.

Row 1: 1 hdc in 5th ch from hook, [sk next ch, 1 hdc in next ch] 17 times. Do not turn on this Row or on any of the Rounds to follow.

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 5 dc over post of hdc just made to begin working in the round; working along bottom of piece, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp 16 times, 8 dc in next ch 4 sp to continue around to top side of piece, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp 16 times; 2 dc in end sp; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Round 3: Sl st back over sl st just made between 2/dc groups, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc over same sl st, ch 1, [in next gap between 2/dc groups work (1 dc, ch 1) 3 times] 2 times, [1 dc in next gap between 2/dc groups, ch 1] 17 times, [in next gap between 2/dc groups work (1 dc, ch 1) 3 times] 3 times, [1 dc in next gap between 2/dc groups, ch 1] 18 times, sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.

Round 5: Repeat Round 3 on each uneven Round to reach desired size. (I worked Round 3 9 times.) Increase 3 times on each end evenly spaced to achieve a round oval or above previous uneven Round increase to achieve elongated hexagon shape.

Round 6: Repeat Round 4 on each even Round to reach desired size. If desired, bind off after reaching desired size to create a doily or table topper.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 21 (or Round after achieving desired size): Sl st back over sl st just made between 2/dc groups, ch 7 (counts as 1 dc and [ch 5), sk next gap or next 2 gaps between 2/dc groups, 1 dc between next 2/dc groups] around; ch 2, 1 tr in 2nd ch of starting ch 7 to form final ch 5 sp of Round. (I alternated between skipping 1 2/dc gap and 2 2/dc gaps because my rock is so gigantic.)

Round 22: Ch 7 (counts as 1 dc and [ch 5), 1 dc in next ch 5 sp] around; ch 2, 1 tr in 2nd ch of starting ch 7 to form final ch 5 sp of Round. Continue with Round 22 until snowflake fits snugly around rock, leaving about a 1- to 2-inch opening on the back or bottom side. (I think I did seven Rounds, and I didn't try to completely cover my rock. There is a large hole on the back of my rock. I ran out of Ocean thread. The front of the covered rock is what matters.)

Final Round, Rock Covering:Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each ch 5 sp around, inserting rock after about 2/3rds of Round, gently stitching while finishing Round and closing up hole so as not to damage crochet hook; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off, leaving 4- to 5-inch tail. Weave end through final Round of dc and pull tight. Bind off again, weave in end. Place in garden!

Finish: Attach bicycle motifs as desired if desired. I sewed mine on by machine with motif-matching thread before beginning Round 21.

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Snowflake Monday

A few weeks ago, I created a Twilight Snowflake.

This week, I've made a Ti Light Snowflake. Because Ti inspires me. (UPDATE: Ti's blog got hacked -- badly -- and she deleted the entire thing rather than try to deal with the ugliness someone inserted into her wonderful creativity. Although her blog is gone, Ti reigns on, and I'm sure she's still doing inspiring things and taking great pictures in Alaska.)

And now, new update!!! I've written the pattern for the bike body, as well as a rock covering big enough to hold this crocheted bicycle! Find my Snowbike Rock Wrapper here.

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 4.5 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, water soluble school glue or desired stiffener, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Ti Light Snowflake Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as dc); 12 dc in ring; sl st across starting ch 2 into top of 1st dc. Do not pull magic ring too tight.

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 hdc in same dc as sl st, * 1 sc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in same dc, ch 5, sl st in top of dc just made, 1 hdc in same dc; repeat from * around 4 times; 1 sc in next dc, 1 hdc in same dc as starting dc, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3, ch 2, 1 dc in same ch to form last ch 5 loop.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 3: Ch 9 (counts as 1 trtr and ch 3), 1 trtr in loop just made, ch 3, * 1 trtr in next ch 8 loop, [ch 3, 1 trtr in same loop] 2 times, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times; 1 trtr in starting loop, ch 3, sl st in 6th ch of starting ch 9.

Round 4: * 6 sc in next ch 3 sp, 2 hdc in next ch 3 sp, 1 dc in same sp, ch 5, sl st in dc just made, 1 dc in same sp, 2 hdc in same sp, 6 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3; repeat from * around 5 times; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.

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Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

If using glue, mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture or desired stiffener. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

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Bracket Racket

Guest Post by The Lizard

Bottom Bracket TLC

Hi, people! I decided to commandeer Snowcatcher's site. Instead of snowflakes, we're going to apply some physics, remove rust and administer the art of tender loving care to the bottom bracket of Snowcatcher's road bike. For those wondering, there are several bottom bracket designs. In this case, the bottom bracket is simply an aluminum tube containing a cluster of ball bearings on each side. A spindle runs through the center of the aluminum tube and bearing clusters. Crank arms (pedals) attach to the spindle, allowing a cyclist to smoothly pedal.


Early last summer, Snowcatcher's bottom bracket developed a tick. No problem, I figured. I would easily change it out some evening. I even had a new bottom bracket "in stock" sitting on my shop shelf. That evening came, and I pulled the cranks and began to remove the bottom bracket. I couldn't break it free. I assumed rust. Despite the clicking noise, the spindle turned well and the bearings seemed to be working okay. However, Snowcatcher had several rides coming up, and I didn't want to get too Herculean with the frame should the problem be cross-threading or something drastic. So, I let it go until her sanctioned rides were finished or it became an emergency. Well, events came and went, and an emergency never materialized. Now I'm finally getting to the task.

The bottom bracket is original and has close to 15,000 miles on it. I'm quite impressed with this bottom bracket! It's a Shimano Ultegra, meaning it's an upper end bottom bracket that has more than performed as expected. To get things going I pulled the cranks and applied some penetrating oil to the bottom bracket/frame interface. This step likely didn't do much, but who knows.


Leverage was needed more than anything. Hmmmm... this might work. I had some 1.25-inch, schedule 80 PVC, electrical tubing and 12 inches of crescent wrench. Meet Big Bertha, all five feet of her!


In order to keep the bottom bracket cup remover tool attached to the old bottom bracket while I flailed around with Bertha and the bike, I bolted the tool to the bottom bracket via the hollow spindle. The crescent wrench handle had to be tapped into the 1.25-inch PVC. The tool was fairly solid feeling when done.


I didn't really have any way to attach the bike to the floor. So, I did my best to cloak my body over the frame, still maintaining the freedom to leverage Bertha. HEAVE! Nothing! HEAVE! Did I feel slippage? AGAIN! Was that more slippage, ever so slight? Man, this thing is seized up. At this point, I was worried I may be stripping the threads. Oh well, we're committed. I pushed again and it became easier, I could see separation between frame and bottom bracket. So far, things were going well. Although, I knew the frame's shell threads were going to need some care. Now on to the right side of the bike, the side where the crank with chainrings (sprockets) is located. Bottom bracket shell threads on this side are left hand. So, after a short stint conducting music with my hands, I'm confident I'm going to be leveraging in the correct direction. HEAVE! Nothing. AGAIN! The cup gives and begins to back out. It's not as seized up on this side and begins backing out easily. Success!


Oh my goodness me! Just a little rusted are we? A red-headed step-child if I'd ever seen one. The original bottom bracket cup threads are alloy, and not too bad. However, there was good rust build-up inside the frame's shell, enough to make bearing removal a bear. Considering the frame is steel (Columbus tubing - very good stuff), sporting an original bottom bracket that has not seen daylight in many, many moons, things aren't so bad.


With an army of WD-40, heavier oil, toothbrush, steel wool, paper towels and rags, we attacked the rust as best we could. The rust seemed to clean up sufficiently; none of the frame threads appeared to be eaten away. The non-slip compound dabbed on the original bottom bracket cup threads by the factory had also fossilized a bit since original installation.


For about 24 hours I cleaned and reapplied oils to the bottom bracket shell. I was attempting to break up and eat as much rust and oxidation as possible. Slowly we began to reach an acceptable level of clean. In time, a clean thread became a happy thread. Then I greased the heck out of everything in the frame's bottom bracket shell.



Even when internally coated with a rust inhibitor, as manufactures claim to do, steel does rust. All my steel bikes have had rust. Washing, riding in rain, sudden temperature variation leading to condensation (from cold outside to warm inside) all contribute to rust over time. Nonetheless, steel is real and the ride awesome. There is a reason custom frame builders still work with steel. There also seems to be renewed interest, along with some R&D, in stainless steel, too. Perhaps there is a steel renaissance on the horizon? Time will tell.


The bottom bracket spindle/ crank arm interface is very susceptible to creaking. It puts up with a lot of force while a rider pedals. Under heavy loads it can undergo some flex and creak. An avid antagonist to creaking, I like to use a lot of grease on the spindle.


I use a lot of grease on the crank arms, as well.


Finally it's time to install and tighten/ torque the cranks, and the Specialized Allez Comp is ready for bear!


And there you have it! Now all you Rosie Riveters get after it! Impress dear hubby with a bottom bracket overhaul. I got a backrub out of the deal and so could you!

Lizard Lives...

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Wordless Wednesday

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