My plan for the past several months has been to compile my snowflake patterns into a pdf booklet once I reach 100 patterns. Or, well, 103, because I've done two I don't like and one I hate. (Remember the Ugly Flake?!?) The goal was to make the pdf available for a tax-deductible contribution to the Colorado Chapter of the National Multiple Sclerosis Society (which has now combined with Wyoming). I was planning for about February because that's when I typically get to register for the coming year's MS-150 (now Bike MS), and my contribution page would be set up.
Last week I received notification that I get to register for the 2011 ride TODAY!!! Woohoo!!! I raised $1,200 last year, so I am once again a Premium Pedaler, and I get to register before the event is open to the public. Apparently they've added a couple of months to the registration process!
I'm not quite up to 100 patterns yet. In fact, I'm working on #70 right now. I don't have enough time to compile all the patterns into one booklet this week. But I can do some of my favorites (or the most popular; what do you think?), throw in a bonus or two yet unpublished patterns, and make the pdf booklet available beginning next week. (Man, do I ever hate putting deadlines on myself!!!) For those of you who have had difficulty printing my patterns, the pdf pattern will not be white text on white background, nor will it be white text on a dark background. The pdf pattern will be dark text on a light background and will feature color photographs.
Today's Christmas Snowflake is an idea I've had in my head for a couple of weeks and finally had a chance to work up late last week. If you are making the stockings, please make sure to read the special note about the stocking patterns, which immediately follows the snowflake pattern.
This Christmas Snowflake, of course, may be made without the stockings, and the stockings may be added to other flake patterns with adequate space between spokes for the stockings to hang. I still have a few danglies after last week's snowflake, and this Christmas Snowflake is another perfect hanger for small store-bought crystal ornaments. (It's another hungry snowflake! Feed the hungry snowflakes!)
The stockings also may be used as stand-alone ornaments for a small tree or as package toppers. Feel free to use a color other than red, too! You also may make the stockings with yarn instead of thread (and a larger hook, of course), which will result in three- and four-inch stockings that look great on the mantle or on a full-sized tree. This larger size also is perfect for tiny gifts for co-workers, babysitters, bus drivers, newspaper carriers, teachers, classroom treats and neighbors. (Feed the hungry stockings! Fill 'em with Christmas candy!)The middle-sized stocking made of worsted weight yarn with a size G hook is a pattern I designed many, many moons ago while attending high school, and I sold those little stockings for a quarter each.
For your own little personal touch, you could make a tiny Santa hat for the top point of the snowflake. (I did not have time to make one and write a pattern, but I will if you really need it. Just ask.)
May the spirit of Christmas wrap around you and those you love this week and throughout the coming year. Merry Christmas!
You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!
Finished Size: 7.5 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread in white and red, small amount of fuzzy white sports yarn, size 8 crochet hook, size 1 crochet hook, 5 6mm red beads, 10 smaller gold beads, optional fiber fill, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, beading needle, clear thread or fishing line
Christmas Stalking Snowflake Instructions
Make magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 12, *3 dc in ring, ch 12; repeat 4 times; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3. Do not pull magic ring too tight.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 8 sc in next ch 12 loop, ch 18, 8 sc in same ch 12 loop, *1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 8 sc in next ch 12 loop, ch 18, 8 sc in same ch 12 loop; repeat from * around 4 times, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, sk 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next ch 18 sp, 1 hdc in same sp, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, sl st in top of dc just worked, 1 hdc in same ch 18 sp, 4 sc in same sp, ch 7, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 4 sc in same ch 18 sp, ch 10, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 ch, 4 sc in same ch 18 sp, ch 7, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 4 sc in same ch 18 sp, 1 hdc in same sp, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, sl st in top of dc, 1 hdc in same 18 ch sp, 2 sc in same ch 18 sp, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, sk 2 sc, *1 dc in each of next 3 dc, sk 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next ch 18 sp, 1 hdc in same sp, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, sl st in top of dc just worked, 1 hdc in same ch 18 sp, 4 sc in same sp, ch 7, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 4 sc in same ch 18 sp, ch 10, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 ch, 4 sc in same ch 18 sp, ch 7, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 4 sc in same ch 18 sp, 1 hdc in same sp, 1 dc in same sp, ch 1, sl st in top of dc, 1 hdc in same 18 ch sp, 2 sc in same ch 18 sp, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, sk 2 sc; repeat from * around 4 times; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3; bind off. Weave in ends.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Note: The Rounds on these stocking patterns do not all start in the same place. Some Rounds begin or end at the toe shaping. If working like this is confusing for you or you don't like to count, use a small piece of thread in a contrasting color to mark Round start. Crochet over the marker or wrap it around the starting stitch, and pull it out on the following Round, moving it to where the new Round starts. Also, the number of stitches in each Round is important only in trying to make twin stockings match. If you don't mind your stockings being fraternal twins, don't worry about the number of stitches. Decreasing on one end of the stocking each Round will shape the toe, regardless of how many stitches are used. The top edge of the stocking may be worked in white thread or in fuzzy sports weight yarn. Worsted weight may be used, but you may have trouble getting a larger hook through your thread stitches. The final Round also may be worked by couching the yarn (using yarn needle, sew around each stitch in the final red Round) instead of crocheting the final Round. If making the stockings with yarn and a larger hook, do three or four Rounds of white, depending upon personal preference, and don't skip stitches. Chain 15 at the end of the final Round and join in final single crochet to form loop for hanging.
Small Stocking (make 2)
With red thread and smaller hook, ch 4.
Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 3 sc in next ch, turning and working along other side of chain to form stocking bottom, 1 sc in next ch (same ch as 1 sc on opposite side) for a total of 8 sc around. Do not join.
Round 2: Working in stitches of Round 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc for a total of 14 sc. Do not join.
Round 3: 1 sc in each sc around. Do not join.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 4: Dec 3 sc across next 6 sc (yo, draw up loop in next sc, draw up loop in next sc, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook; 1 dec made), 1 sc in each of next 8 sc around for a total of 11 sc. Do not join.
Rounds 5-7: 1 sc in next sc, dec 2 sc across next 3 sc (yo, draw up loop in next sc 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook; 2 dec made) (8 sc remain), 1 sc around 2 times. Sl st in next sc, bind off.
Round 8: Using larger hook, join white thread or fuzzy white yarn at back of sock, above heel. If using thread, 1 sc in each sc around for a total of 8 sc. If using fuzzy yarn, 1 sc in every other sc around for a total of 4 sc, adjusting as necessary to keep top of stocking even. Sl st in starting sc. Bind off. Weave in ends. (I did not weave in my white end. I left it out as a hanger.) Stuff lightly if desired.
Medium Stocking (make 2)With red thread and smaller hook, ch 4.
Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 3 sc in next ch, turning and working along other side of chain to form stocking bottom, 1 sc in next ch for a total of 8 sc around. Do not join.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 2: Working in stitches of Round 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc for a total of 14 sc. Do not join.
Round 3: 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc for a total of 18 sc.
Round 4: 1 sc in each sc around. Do not join.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 5: 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, dec 3 sc across next 6 sc, 1 sc in each of next 10 sc around for a total of 15 sc. Do not join.
Round 6: Dec 3 sc across next 6 sc, 1 sc in each of next 9 sc around for a total of 12 sc. Do not join.
Round 7: Dec 1 sc across next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 9 sc around for a total of 11 sc. Do not join.
Rounds 8-11: 1 sc in each sc around 3 times. Sl st in next sc, bind off.
Round 12: Using larger hook, join white thread or fuzzy white yarn at back of sock, above heel. If using thread, 1 sc in each sc around for a total of 11 sc. If using fuzzy yarn, 1 sc in every other sc around for a total of 5 sc, adjusting as necessary to keep top of stocking even. Sl st in starting sc. Bind off. Weave in ends. (I did not weave in my white end. I left it out as a hanger.) Stuff lightly if desired.
Large Stocking (make 1)
With red thread and smaller hook, ch 6.
Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch, 3 sc in next ch, turning and working along other side of chain to form stocking bottom, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch for a total of 12 sc around. Do not join.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.
Round 2: Working in stitches of Round 1, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc for a total of 18 sc. Do not join.
Round 3: 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc for a total of 22 sc.
Rounds 4-5: 1 sc in each sc around twice. Do not join.
Round 6: 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, dec 3 sc across next 6 sc, 1 sc in each of next 15 sc around for a total of 19 sc. Do not join.
Round 7: Dec 3 sc across next 6 sc, 1 sc in each of next 13 sc around for a total of 16 sc. Do not join.
Round 8: Dec 3 sc across next 6 sc for a total of 13 sc. Do not join.
Rounds 9-14: 1 sc in each sc around 5 times. Sl st in next sc, bind off.
Round 16: Using larger hook, join white thread or fuzzy white yarn at back of sock, above heel. If using thread, 1 sc in each sc around for a total of 13 sc and do 2 or 3 Rounds, depending upon personal preference. If using fuzzy yarn, 1 sc in every other sc around for a total of 7 sc, adjusting as necessary to keep top of stocking even. Sl st in starting sc. Bind off. Weave in ends. (I chained 3 at the end with the white and did not weave in the end.) Stuff lightly if desired.
Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.
Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap.
Insert threaded beading needle through bottom of large stocking and invisibly through stitches all the way to top back of stocking. Thread one gold bead, one red bead and one gold bead. Attach to bottom spoke of snowflake and secure. Bind off and weave end through snowflake. Repeat with middle stockings, attaching to spokes on either side of bottom spoke. Repeat with small stockings on either side of top spoke. For extra strength, dab tiny amount of glue on back of each snowflake tip where beads are attached and allow to dry. (I used needle to bring invisible thread through length of spoke and knotted again before binding off, and I re-stiffened all six long points with full-strength, not watered-down, glue.)
This is an extra heavy flake if you stuff the stockings. It may not twirl as freely as hungry, naked snowflakes, and with time, the weight of the stockings could cause the snowflake to need another round of stiffening. You may want to attach this one to a suction cup and display it on a smooth, shiny surface such as a window instead of hanging it by a thread on a tree. For a plain snowflake, however, the same instructions I've provided in the past apply.
Attach 10-inch clear thread to top spoke, weaving in end. (For extra strength, dab this with glue also and allow to dry.) Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.
