Check out this hat! My very first slouchy hat!

This is yet another variation of my Longs Peak Snowflake. Throw in a dash of color and just look what you can achieve with a basic snowflake pattern!

Because this pattern is based on the Longs Peak Snowflake, I've named it after Chasm Lake, which lies at the base of The Diamond, the mountain's gorgeous and steep east face.

I love every alpine lake I've ever visited, especially in summer when the lakes are lined with wildflowers, but Chasm Lake is a favorite destination and memory because it's the only alpine lake I've visited with my kids (years ago) and with my husband (every chance we get). I designed the Longs Peak Snowflake specifically to look like flower petals when worked in color, and I wanted to make projects with many colors, just like the wide variety found in the mountains during July.

This hat was inspired in part by the Blizzard Project on Ravelry. Tracey started the group in November 2010 to encourage snowflakers to make more than just Christmas tree ornaments. I designed this snowflake in April with the intention of creating multiple motif projects, and the Blizzard Project was pure inspiration, setting my brain into overdrive as I tried to come up with new and different ways of connecting snowflakes for projects besides Christmas trees.

I've used sock yarn for this project, but the pattern also could be adapted to use sports weight or worsted weight with an appropriately sized hook. Once again, I've knitted the hatband because I enjoy the fit and feel of knitted ribbing, but crochet adaptations are possible. Lace may look airy, but it can be warm when crafted with wool, and I deliberately knitted the hatband wider than normal, 2.5 inches, to provide maximum ear coverage because I live in a climate with cold winters. For a warmer climate, the hatband could be 1 to 1.5 inches.

Fair Warning: You will have ends to weave in with this project. I weave my ends in as I go so I don't forget them and so I don't have to go searching for them when I'm done.

Included at the end of this post is another thread Longs Peak snowflake variation.

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Snowflake Size: 6 inches from point to point (sock yarn)
Materials: For one motif, small amounts of fingering yarn in black, white, variegated colors and coordinating solid colors, size B crochet hook, stainless steel pins for blocking, blocking surface. For slouchy hat, 1 50-gram skein of black fingering yarn (or desired color), at least 1/4 skein of white fingering yarn (or desired color), small amounts of fingering yarn in variegated colors and coordinating colors, size B crochet hook, size 3 circular knitting needles, stainless steel pins for blocking, blocking surface or balloon. For my slouchy hat, I used Knit Picks Palette in yellow for flower-like centers and black as the main color, sport weight fingering yarn in white to set off the flowers against the black and seven colors of Cherry Tree Hill Semi Solids for flower petals.

Note: This project is excellent for using up leftovers. However, adjustments may need to be made if leftover yarns are not exactly the same weight. Add or subtract stitches when using different weights of yarn, as necessary, to keep motif flat. I used sports weight yarn for the fourth round of my sock yarn motifs because I couldn't find an affordable true white sock yarn. I had to decrease stitches on the fourth round until I found the proper combination and ended up unraveling that round several times and reworking it until I was happy with the shape. Also, if mixing fibers, make sure to keep track of the care of each yarn used so you will be able to properly clean the project if necessary. This also is imperative if you give the project as a gift so the recipient will know how to properly care for it.

Special Stitches:
dc cluster: [yo and draw up loop, yo and bring through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yo and bring through all 4 loops on hook
tr cluster: [yo twice and draw up loop, yo and bring through 2 loops on hook, yo and bring through 2 loops on hook] 4 times, yo and bring through all five loops on hook

Instructions

Make as many motifs as required for desired project. Instructions for slouchy hat, which requires 7 motifs, assembly provided.

Ch 3, sl st into 1st ch OR make magic ring.

Round 1: With coordinating solid, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in ring, ch 3, *2 dc in ring, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times for a total of 6 spokes; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Don't pull magic ring too tight.
Round 2: Sl st in next ch 3 sp, make loop on hook nearly the size of a regular dc and twist twice, work dc cluster into same sp, ch 3, work dc cluster into same sp, *work dc cluster into next ch 3 sp, ch 4, work dc cluster into same sp; repeat from * around 4 times for a total of 12 dc clusters; sl st in top of starting dc cluster and bind off.
Round 3: With variegated thread, make slip stitch and yo twice, draw up loop through any ch 4 sp, [yo and bring through 2 loops on hook] twice (counts as 1st tr of tr cluster), work next 3 tr of tr cluster as instructed above in Special Stitches, ch 7, tr cluster in same ch 4 sp, *tr cluster in next ch 4 sp, ch 7, tr cluster in same ch 4 sp; repeat from * around 4 times for a total of 12 tr clusters; sl st in top of starting tr cluster, bind off.
Round 4: With white, 1 sc in any ch 7 sp, *2 hdc in same ch 7 sp, 3 dc in same sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same sp, 2 hdc in same sp, [1 sc in same sp], 1 sc in next ch 7 sp; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with [1 sc in same sp] and omitting last sc in next ch 7 sp of final repeat; sl st in starting sc and bind off. NOTE: With sports weight yarn, I worked 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in each ch 7 sp.
Round 5: With black, 3 sc in any ch 3 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook (shell made), ch 1, 1 dc cluster between next 2 sc, *ch 4, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, 6 sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 4, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, 1 dc cluster between next 2 sc, ch 6; repeat from * around 4 times; 3 sc in next ch 3 sp, sl st in starting sc.
Round 6, First Flake: 1 sc in same sc, *ch 5, 1 sc in next shell, ch 5, 1 sc in next shell, ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd sc of next 6 sc group, ch 5, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last sc of final repeat and instead working sl st into starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.
Round 6, Joining Flakes: With black, 1 sc in same sc, **[ch 2, sl st into corresponding ch 5 space of next flake (NOT corner ch 5 sp), ch 2, 1 sc in next shell, ch 2, sl st in corresponding ch 5 sp of connected flake, ch 2, 1 sc in next shell, ch 2, sl st in corresponding ch 5 sp of connected flake, ch 2, 1 sc in 3rd sc of next 6 sc group, ch 2, sl st into corner ch 5 sp of connected flake, ch 2, 1 sc in next sc]; repeat * sequence from Round 6, First Flake instructions 5 times, omitting last ch 5 and sc of final repeat and instead working ch 2, sl st into ch 5 corner of connected flake, ch 2, sl st into starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.
After first row of joined snowflakes, work second row of joinings the same except joining flakes with **[ ] sequence on two, three or four sides, as applicable. In corner ch 5 loops where two motifs have already been joined, work 3rd join into join already made.

To assemble Chasm Lake Slouchy Hat: Make seven motifs, joining six motifs around first motif, as shown. Complete outer gaps in circle with insets as follows.

Row 1: With black and right side of motif piece facing you, 1 sc in any corner ch 5 loop on left unjoined side of motif as shown below, [ch 5, 1 sc in next ch 5 sp] 3 times, ch 2, 1 dc in joining of next 2 ch 5 loops, ch 2, 1 dc in same joining (V-stitch made), ch 2, 1 sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, 1 dc in next ch 5 corner loop (ch 2 and 1 dc count as final ch 5 sp). Turn.

Row 2: [Ch 4, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook (shell made), ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 5 sp] 2 times, ch 4, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, pulling yo for 1st half of 2nd dc through top of V-stitch as shown below, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 5 sp, [ ] 2 times for a total of 5 shells this row. Turn

Row 3: Sl st in shell just made, ch 5, sl st in top of next shell, ch 2, 1 dc in top of next shell, ch 2, 1 sc in top of next shell, ch 2, 1 dc in top of next shell (ch 2 and 1 dc count as final ch 5 sp), turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in next dc ( in top of dc between 2 shells), ch 2, sl st in next ch 5 sp. Bind off. Weave in ends.
Repeat for each of remaining 5 gaps in circle, but do not bind off on final gap. Instead, ch 1 and turn, right side facing you.

Round 5: 1 sc in next ch sp, ch 5, 1 sc in next shell, *sk ch 1 sp immediately following shell, [ch 5, 1 sc in next ch sp] 6 times, ch 5, 1 sc in next shell, [ch 5, 1 sc in next ch sp] 3 times, ch 5, 1 sc in next shell; repeat from * around to final ch sp before starting sc, keeping in mind ch 5 sp count is not critical for this round. Keep your sc evenly spaced around to maintain mesh pattern and begin hat shaping. When you reach starting sc, instead of final ch 5, ch 2, 1 dc in starting sc (ch 2 and 1 dc count as final ch 5 sp of round). Ideally, there will be 70-72 ch spaces around. Having a few more or less will not affect size or shaping; 80 chain spaces around will not give chain spaces enough room to stretch out and form mesh; 60 chain spaces may not be big enough for an adult head.
Round 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 sc in next sp; repeat from * around to final ch 5 sp before starting sc. Instead of final ch 5, ch 2, 1 dc in starting sc (ch 2 and 1 dc count as final ch 5 sp of round).
Round 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, *ch 4, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook (shell made), ch 1, 1 sc in next sp; repeat from * around; sl st in starting sc.
Round 8: Sl st into top of next shell, ch 1, 1 sc in same shell, ch 5, *1 sc in top of next shell, ch 5; repeat from * around to final shell before starting sc; instead of final ch 5, ch 2, 1 dc in starting sc (ch 2 and 1 dc count as final ch 5 sp).
Rounds 9-11: Ch 1, 1 sc in same sp, *ch 5, 1 sc in next ch 5 sp; repeat from * around to final ch 5 sp before starting sc; instead of final ch 5, ch 2, 1 dc in starting sc (ch 2 and 1 dc count as final ch 5 sp).
Round 10: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *2 dc in next ch 5 sp; repeat from * around, ideally for a total of 140-144 dc, adjusting as necessary for an even number of dc for a k 1, p 1 rib or a multiple of 4 for a k 2, p 2 rib. Sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 11: Switching to circular knitting needle, pick up one st in each dc around for a total of 140-144 st.
Rounds 12-20: K 2, p 2 around, or k 1, p 1 around.
Round 21: Bind off, maintaining rib pattern. Weave in ends.

Finish: I blocked and shaped the joined motifs before working the gap insets and hatband. I used a large balloon to shape the completed hat. I put the balloon inside the hat, blew up the balloon to stretch out the hat, lightly sprayed the hat with plain water mist then allowed it to dry. The balloon shrunk overnight and was easily removed from the hat the following morning, but I could easily have popped the balloon with a pin, too, if needed.

Longs Peak III Snowflake

Ch 3, sl st into 1st ch OR make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in ring, ch 3, *2 dc in ring, ch 3; repeat from * around 4 times for a total of 6 spokes; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. Pull magic ring tight.
Round 2: Sl st in next ch 3 sp, make loop on hook nearly the size of a regular dc and twist twice (does not count as dc), work dc cluster as instructed above in Special Stitches into same sp, ch 4, work dc cluster into same sp, *work dc cluster into next ch 3 sp, ch 4, work dc cluster into same sp; repeat from * around 4 times for a total of 12 dc clusters, sl st across starting dc cluster into next ch 3 sp.
Round 3: Ch 2 and make loop on hook length of ch 2 (counts as start of 1st tr of tr cluster), work next 3 tr of tr cluster as instructed above in Special Stitches in same sp, *ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 16, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc in next ch, 1 dc in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, sl st in each of next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 ch, 1 sc in next ch (spoke made), ch 2, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, tr cluster in same ch 4 sp as previous tr cluster, tr cluster in next ch 4 sp; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last tr cluster of final repeat, for a total of 12 tr clusters and six spokes; sl st in top of starting tr cluster; bind off. Weave in ends.

Merry Christmas!

2011-12-25T02:45:00.000-07:00

Sugar Plum Fairy

2011-12-24T06:30:00.000-07:00

Everyone has been sending such wonderful links... how do I narrow them down to just one per day?!?

Semper Fi

2011-12-24T04:30:00.000-07:00

Please keep all our troops who are still out there in your prayers. Merry Christmas!

Change for a Dollar

2011-12-23T04:30:00.000-07:00

Fruition

2011-12-22T04:30:00.000-07:00

Wordless Wednesday

2011-12-20T18:30:00.000-07:00

Precursor

2011-12-20T04:30:00.000-07:00

Snowflake Monday

2011-12-19T04:30:00.000-07:00

Last week we had a special anniversary celebration for two of my co-workers. Both hit the 30-year-mark with my employer this year.

Some co-workers mused about how old they would be if they stuck around 30 years. Some pondered how many of our co-workers would still be around by the time they hit their own 30-year marks. Some were simply amazed that anyone could stay with one company that long.

We have three more co-workers coming up on 30 years; they've each hit 25 years already. Then it will be my turn. I've been with my current employer for 18 years. It is completely feasible I could last 12 more years and still be capable and willing to work.

One thing I've learned during my overall 34-year, varied-position career is November and December are extremely busy in some fields, and I seem to be drawn to those jobs. This year has been one of the most hectic and demanding for my department, and needlework time (as well as sleep and cycling) has been falling by the wayside all month.

I'm slowly beginning to learn not to put too much pressure on myself this time of year in order to preserve the spirit of the true holiday and still be able to get my work done. Christmas isn't just about gifts, trees, lights, giving, gathering and snowflakes. Christmas is the time of year my family and I celebrate and remember the birth of our Savior, and I don't ever want to get so buried in commitments I forget the true reason for the season.

I have a stash, so to speak, of snowflake patterns I've worked up to carry me through cycling season. I'm always afraid I'll be so bicycle-brained, I won't be inspired enough to create new patterns. This year, I was able to keep up with producing at least one new snowflake a week almost all year long, until November, so the pattern stash is well-stocked for next year. Which means I can draw from it now without diminishing what I'll need for next summer. Plus, it takes the pressure off of trying to design right now when life just doesn't accommodate as many personal goals.

Maybe, just maybe, snowflake designing will one day reach a memorable milestone of years equal to what I've been able to achieve at work. Although, because I've been publishing my own designs for only 28 months now, 30 years may be quite out of the question!

The Lizard and I wish you a blessed Christmas filled with peace, joy, love and hope.

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 2 inches from point to point (1.25 inches if using size 40 thread and size 14 hook)
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, school glue (NOT all-purpose glue), water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line
NOTE: If worked tightly, this snowflake does not necessarily require stiffening.

Instructions

Round 1: *Ch 3, 3 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook; repeat from * 5 times; sl st in 1st ch of starting ch 3.
Round 2: *3 dc over 3rd dc of next 3/dc group, ch 2, 3 dc over same dc, sl st over next lone dc; repeat from * 5 times; do not join.
Round 3: *1 sc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch 2 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, 1 dc in next dc, 1 hdc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc; repeat from * 5 times; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Friday Funny

2011-12-16T04:30:00.000-07:00

Just around the corner

2011-12-15T04:30:00.000-07:00

I’ve searched everywhere I possibly can, except for my hometown newspaper archives, which are 900 miles away, and I can’t find the Christmas story I wrote back in about 1982. So I’m going to try to rewrite it as best I can. Maybe this version will turn out even better than the yellowed newspaper clipping gathering dust somewhere in my basement.

Grandma’s house was magical. I could stick a piece of white paper in a tray of water in a big, long sink in a room with a funny colored light, swish the paper around with tongs, and the paper would turn into a photograph! Cereal at Grandma's house had tiny colored marshmallows. And at Christmastime, her tree had candle-shaped lights that bubbled!

Grandma’s house always had wonderful smells. In the mornings, before the sun came up, we could smell the freshly pressed corduroy she would iron for Grandpa before he went to work. Grandma had a drawer full of beautifully shaped and ornately decorated bottles of perfume, and she always let me pick which one to sprinkle onto the freshly washed hankies edged with her delicate hand-crocheted lace and sometimes decorated with her detailed silk embroidery. And at Christmastime, Grandma’s house always smelled of homemade gingerbread.

Of course, the pleasure of decorating the gingerbread houses was reserved for us kids, as was licking the bowl when we were done.

Each year, there was a trip to the mall and a visit with a jolly old man in red with a real white beard.

One year, I asked Santa for a bicycle. All the kids in my neighborhood rode their bikes to school, and they’d ride up and down the street after school. My turquoise strap-on rollerskates with a key no longer fit, and it was time for two wheels.

“Have you been good?” the old man asked after I whispered in his ear.

“Oh, yes, Santa, I have been very good! I make my bed, and I pick up my toys. I help Mom hang the clothes on the line in the backyard, and I always clean my plate.”

“Well, then,” Santa replied, “I think you should look for a very special package beneath the tree on Christmas morning."

I just knew I’d have a shiny, red bike on Christmas morning! I could barely keep my feet on the floor as I rushed to tell Grandma the good news.

“Oh,” she responded, “Christmas is still just around the corner!”

The days seemed to take too long, and I impatiently asked Grandma every day, sometimes more than once a day, “How much longer until Christmas?”

Always, she gave the same response.

“Christmas is just around the corner, Sweetie.”

Finally, I could no longer contain myself. The boys were in the tub, splashing away, and Grandma was busy trying to keep the water off the floor. Grandpa was golfing. Dad was at work. No one was watching.

So out the door I snuck, closing it behind me, ever so softly. Down the street I skipped. Around the corner I peered. Nothing but houses.

Well, maybe it wasn’t the right corner. I skipped another block. Around the corner I peeked. Cars whooshed by, but there was something across the street. I had to get closer.

I looked left, I looked right. I waited. I looked left again, I looked right, and across the street I darted. Down the grassy slope into a big, huge parking lot, filled with cars and undecorated Christmas trees and people rushing to and fro. I walked toward the big building, and the closer I got, the better I could see.

There, right in front of the big glass entryway, was a whole row of bright red shiny bicycles!

On my heels I turned, and off I ran, still carefully checking left and right before crossing the busy street. I ran all the way back to Grandma’s house, slowly pushed open the door, then gently closed it behind me. I peered into the hallway, where Grandma was wrapping warm, oversized towels around my soaked little brothers.

“Where have you been?” she asked me, turning with her hands on her hips, the universal signal for, “You’ve been caught, Little Missy!”

“I found Christmas!” I gushed.

“Oh,” Grandma said, chuckling, a familiar twinkle in her eye, “Christmas is still just around the corner!”

But I knew! I had seen it! Christmas truly was just around the corner!

Wordless Wednesday

2011-12-13T18:30:00.000-07:00

Someone needs to say it

2011-12-13T04:30:00.000-07:00

2011-11-22T18:30:00.000-07:00

Gone

2011-11-22T04:30:00.000-07:00

I'd worked a full day. I'd attended a meeting that lasted until well after 10 p.m. I was tired. Too exhausted to react.

The Lizard gently leaked news he'd deleted his blog before I got home.

It's not the same kind of grief as accidentally killing a praying mantis, the car being broken into and the stereo, the kids' Gameboys and the first aid kit being stolen, the tree in the front yard being cut down without warning by the homeowners' association, breaking the grow light before even getting it out of the package, an annual balloon festival being permanently cancelled due to lack of sponsorship, a favorite sunflower field being mowed as thistle control...

Yet grief storms in nonetheless. Pure and unabashed grief. Somewhat akin to coming home one night in May (each year) to find The Lizard has shaved his head without letting me know in advance. Because bald is more comfortable for him while wearing a cycling helmet for hours a day.

I don't even have a screenshot of my favorite Lee Zard blog post. (But I do have my favorite photo from his blog... because I snapped the picture!)

The Lizard read what I typed, right over my shoulder, asked me to move, and sat down to type, right in my journal:

"The Lizard lives!!!"

Yes, he does, and for that, I'm grateful.

Snowflake Monday

2011-11-21T04:30:00.001-07:00

By request, I worked up a pattern for a tiny Santa hat to go with last year's Christmas stocking snowflake. I thought tiny mittens would be cute, too. Then I designed a new snowflake to go with the miniature fashion accessories.

This snowflake is not as easy as last year's, so if you are a beginner or have trouble with complex stitches, you might want to stick with last year's snowflake instead of the Santa Hat Snowflake. Without adornments, I think this looks like a Saguaro Snowflake!

The Lizard once again graciously photographed my hands while working the challenging steps. I've included photos of one of the prototype snowflakes without the linked stitches so you can see what the snowflake spokes will look like if you opt not to link the stitches.

For the very first snowflake I made after coming up with this idea, I did not make a center, so I've included a photo of that, in case you want to give it a try and put an oversized rhinestone, charm or other small dangling object in the center. For that version of the snowflake, skip the first three Rounds and begin with Round 4, starting at the *, working one straight row with what looks like prayer flags as you finish the points, then finishing by slip stitching the final point to the first point to make a hexagon.

With the weight of the hat, gloves and stockings, this snowflake must be stiffer than starching might accomplish. Two coats of school glue/water or possibly even glue undiluted may be required. Make sure the glue is school glue, not all-purpose glue. Spoke joints may be reinforced with an extra dab of glue after stiffening. (I reinforced my joints twice.) Mod Podge works great for this type of project, too, although Mod Podge-stiffened flakes will warp with time when hung in a window with prolonged exposure to the heat of the sun. They may be reshaped, but that takes time. Also colored snowflakes hung in a window will eventually fade with prolonged exposure to the sun.

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Finished Size: 7 inches from point to point with size 10 hook, 8.75 inches with size 7 hook (more open and perhaps not strong enough to carry weight with the larger hook)
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 10 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, school glue (make sure it is water soluble) or Mod Podge, water, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line; small beads (seed and 6mm or smaller) for attaching embellishments, if desired; for hat, size 0 and size 1 crochet hooks, 1 skein of red embroidery floss, very small amount of fuzzy white yarn (I used Lion Brand Wool Ease; laceweight would work), 1 7mm pom pom (a tiny jingle bell would be cute, too); for mittens, size 8 crochet hook, size 10 thread, size 1 crochet hook, very small amount of fuzzy white yarn, good eyes and a ton of patience

Instructions

Ch 4, sl st into 1st ch OR make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 12 dc in ring, sl st across starting ch 2 into starting dc. Pull magic circle tight, but leave opening big enough to allow stitches inside it to lay flat.
Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), 1 dc in same st as sl st, *sk 1 st, 1 dc in next st, ch 3, 1 dc in same st (V made); repeat from * around 4 times for a total of 6 Vs; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 5.
Round 3: Sl st into ch 3 sp, sl st into middle ch of same ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch 3 sp, *3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp; repeat from * around 4 times; 3 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in 3rd ch of starting ch 3 (counts as final ch 2 sp).
Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), *ch 20, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, [1 dc in each of next 3 ch] (right side point made), ch 10, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next 3 ch, [[1 dc in each of next 3 ch]] (top point made), ch 7, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, yo and draw up loop through next ch, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw up loop through top half of [[last dc in top point]], yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw up loop through bottom half of [[same dc]], yo and draw up loop through top half of [last dc of right side point], yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw up loop through bottom half of [same dc], yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw through all six loops on hook (left side point made), 1 ldc in each of next 3 ch, 1 ltr in each of next 3 ch, 1 ldtr in each of next 3 ch, 1 ltrtr in each of next 3 ch, ch 1, 1 hdc in next ch 2 sp; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last hdc of final repeat and instead working sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.

yarn over and draw up loop through next chain,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook

yarn over and draw up loop through top half of top point dc

yarn over and draw through two loops on hook

yarn over and draw up loop through bottom half of same dc,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook

yarn over and draw up loop through top half of right point dc,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook

yarn over and draw up loop through bottom half of same dc,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook

yarn over and draw through all six loops on hook

draw up loop through cluster just made,
draw up loop through next chain,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook;
linked double crochet made

after making three linked double crochet stitches,
yarn over, draw up loop through double crochet just made,
draw up loop through next chain,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook three times;
linked treble crochet made

after making three linked double crochet stitches,
yarn over, draw up loop through double crochet just made,
draw up loop through next chain,
yarn over and draw through two loops on hook three times;
linked treble crochet made; repeat process for next tr,
drawing up loop through previous treble twice
instead of yarn over and draw up loop;
repeat process when changing to double triple crochet
and again when changing to triple triple crochet

Santa Hat

With Size 1 hook and embroidery floss, ch 16. Taking care not to twist work, sl st into 1st ch to form ring.

Round 1: 1 sc in each ch around for a total of 16. Do not join.
Rounds 2-4: 1 sc in each st around.
Rounds 3-9: Dec 2 sc evenly spaced around. As the opening becomes smaller and smaller, you may skip stitches instead of working formal single crochet decreases. For Rounds 8 and 9, you may work single crochet around the post of a single crochet if that makes it easier. Just remember you want this piece to come to a point on top, so however you achieve it will be fine.
Round 10: 1 sc through top of hat, closing any opening that may remain. Ch 2. Bind off. Pull end inside hat to hide.
Rim Round: With fuzzy white yarn and size 0 hook, 1 sc in each st around bottom of hat. Bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Glue pom pom to top of hat and allow to dry.

Mittens

Round 1: For thumb, with thread and size 8 hook, make magic ring; 6 sc in ring. Do not join. Pull magic ring tight.
AMIGURUMI TIP: When piece begins to turn inside out, poke inside middle with bottom end of crochet hook and push outside right.
Rounds 2-3: 1 sc in each sc around. Bind off. Cut inside tail even with edge of thumb, but leave a small tail on finishing st.

Round 1: For main mitten body, with thread and size 8 hook, ch 4, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 3 sc in next ch; turning piece clockwise to form oval and working around on other side of ch, 1 sc in middle ch opposite lone sc on other side. Do not join.
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st sc of Round 1, 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc.
Rounds 3-8: 1 sc in each sc around.
Round 9: Attach thumb by weaving finishing tail of thumb around next mitten stitch, then back through finishing thumb stitch and back through same mitten stitch. Continue sc by working next sc into next sc on thumb (after woven in st just worked), work sc around thumb to woven in st, do not sc in woven in st, then continue working sc around mitten.
Rounds 10-11: 1 sc in each sc around, dec on sc on each side of thumb joint.
Rounds 12-15: 1 sc in each sc around. Bind off. Pull any ends inside of mitten.
Round 14: With fuzzy yarn and size 1 hook, 1 sc in every other sc around. Bind off. Pull ends inside mitten. Stuff lightly if desired.

Follow instructions given in Christmas Stocking Snowflake to make stockings, if desired.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap. Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap.

Attach stockings and mittens as instructed in Christmas Stocking Snowflake. Perch hat atop top point of snowflake and dab with tiny drop of glue if desired, or attach hanging thread to top spoke of snowflake and thread right through hat.

This is an extra heavy flake if you stuff the stockings and/or mittens. It may not twirl as undecorated snowflakes, and with time, the weight of the stockings may cause the snowflake to need another round of stiffening.

Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Or use 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch ribbon or ornament hanger for added strength.

Life is Short

2011-11-18T04:30:00.001-07:00

Did NOT get this one from a cycling magazine or ezine, but I'll bet all of them will be featuring it soon! Marvelous messages!

Higher Ground

2011-11-17T04:30:00.000-07:00

Time has been flying so fast, I thought I'd planted my clove sprouts back in the spring. According to my journal, my 20 seeds were ordered in spring, but my little sprouts from Hawaii did not arrive in Colorado until July. The seeds are not viable for long. I planted them immediately. 18 had sprouted en route.

Clove trees thrive in clay. We have plenty of that. They like a moist climate, so I water them almost every day. I photographically document their progress. I talk to them. They don't talk back. I tell them how much I enjoy watching them grow. I often crochet right next to them.

They thrive at sea level. I didn't expect eleven of my seedlings to survive at 6,000 feet. They require 55 to 75 degrees. That can be difficult to comply with in Colorado, so I'm helicopter parenting these little babies.

The tiny clove trees don't like their roots to be messed with. Actually, full-grown mature trees in Hawaii don't like their roots to be disturbed. So I've been understandably nervous about transplanting my "children," moving them out of their cradles and into more appropriate living quarters. I recently worked up the guts to move one little seedling to a real pot, a blue big boy bed, with a mix of clay and real soil. I've anxiously watched for about ten days now, hoping and praying my little tiny clove tree likes its new home.

Clay sticks unforgivably to everything but itself. I'm frightened to touch the other "kids" because the first one toppled out of his crumbling clay while I was so tenderly and lovingly moving him. I was so afraid he'd shrivel and die. But he didn't!

This little boy appears happy. Now I am summoning the courage to transplant the other 10 survivors.

UPDATE: All 11 clove trees have big boy and big girl beds now. Fingers, toes and threads crossed they all keep growing...

Wordless Wednesday

2011-11-15T18:30:00.000-07:00

Harvest

2011-11-15T04:30:00.000-07:00

My white corn crop was highly successful in New Mexico. In Colorado, my entire 2011 crop is fit for anyone on a diet.

Snowflake Monday

2011-11-14T04:30:00.000-07:00

I wanted to climb a peak to commemorate the seventh anniversary of my back surgery, but snowstorms raged on all three peaks I'd picked. One of the main reasons I climb is for the view, and there is no view during a blizzard.

So The Lizard and I took a bike ride instead. During this windy, blustery and threatening-to-rain ride, I contemplated different edgings for my Fall Blaze Hat because I'd received multiple requests for a crochet rim instead of the knitted rim. While I was working out the stitches in my head, it occurred to me I could design a snowflake to match the hat, fingerless gloves and cowl.

Then I had to come up with a name for the snowflake. Our training ride doesn't have a formal name, but the route included sections of the Elephant Rock ride we do every June. I wasn't sure I liked Elephant Rock as the name of a snowflake, so back to the drawing board I went.

We were in Douglas County, which celebrates its 150th anniversary this month. There is a Douglas Pass, although it's way on the other side of the state. And I've been seriously contemplating a Douglas bike as a replacement when and if my bike calls it a day. During this particular training ride, the... what do you call it... bottom bracket kept... how to describe it... thudding? I don't know much about the mechanical aspect of bikes, but The Lizard knew what this meant ("too much play in the bearings, because your bike is getting old"), and he thinks he'll be able to fix it. So I may yet get another year out of my bike. (I'm not one who buys a camera, bike, car, phone or computer every time something new comes along. I use my stuff until it absolutely cannot in any way be fixed anymore.)

Douglas isn't just the name of a couple of Colorado places and a bike. Douglas is the name of the brother I lost coming up on ten years ago, and he would have turned 48 this week. Douglas is the perfect name for this snowflake.

Douglas County was named after Little Giant Stephen A. Douglas, famed orator, senator, and presidential and romantic rival to Abraham Lincoln. He briefly courted Mary Todd before she married Abe. Douglas believed the people should decide if slavery should be allowed or abolished, not the government (popular sovereignty).

Douglas Pass is located along a two-lane highway connecting Grand Junction to Rangely and Dinosaur, and one of the last times I saw my brother was a road trip we took to Dinosaur. Douglas Pass is not exceptionally high, at 8,268 feet, but it is not maintained at night, so winter driving in the dark can be an adventure. The pass, located in the Bookcliff Mountains (another very cool name), provides an exceptional view of the La Sal Mountains, right outside of Moab, one of my favorite places on earth. Once upon a time, a challenging mountain bike trail called Flight of Icarus, with nearly 4,000 feet of screaming downhill, began at the summit of Douglas Pass but was closed by the BLM in 2003. Nope, I never rode it; I'm not a downhiller on skis or bike. The Lizard never got the chance to ride Icarus, but would have if the trail had not been closed.

Douglas bicycle frames, named for Colorado Cyclist owner Doug Bruinsma, for many years were made in Washington state for the mostly mail-order bike shop in Colorado Springs. Bruinsma moved his mail-order bike shop from Estes Park to the Springs the year after I moved to Estes Park for an eight-year newshound stint. We probably crossed paths without ever knowing it. Douglas was an American-made, affordable and sturdy bike with top components and a special and sentimental name. Of course, now that I've decided I want one, they are no longer made. Figures. Maybe my limping bike will last another year.

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 5 to 6.5 inches from point to point, depending upon hook size
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 7, 8 or 10 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line
NOTE: I stiffened these flakes with spray starch and an iron on cotton setting.

Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as dc on this round), 12 dc in ring, sl st across starting ch 2 into 1st dc. Pull magic ring tight.
Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), *1 dc in next st, ch 2; repeat from * around for a total of 12 dc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 5.
Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last dc of final repeat, for a total of 6 ch/2 points. (If desired, bind off here for a cute small snowflake.)
Round 4: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), 1 dc in same st as sl st, ch 3, *1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3/dc group, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3; repeat from * around, ending with 1 dc in 3rd ch of starting ch of Round 3 instead of last 2 dc of final repeat; ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 6. (If desired, bind off here for a cute small snowflake.)

Round 5: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in starting ch 6 sp of Round 4, ch 1, *1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.
Round 6: Sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 2 ch 1 sp, *3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 5, sl st in top of dc just made, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of next 4 ch 1 sp; repeat from * around 4 times; 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 5, sl st in top of dc just made, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 7: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), *1 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in next ch 5 loop, 3 tr in same loop, ch 6, 1 sc in 5th ch from hook, ch 6, sl st in sc, ch 5, sl st in sc, ch 2 (tri picot made), 3 tr in same loop, 1 dc in same loop, sk next 3 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc in next st; repeat from * around 5 times, omitting last hdc of final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Friday Funny

2011-11-11T04:30:00.001-07:00

I can't believe I'm posting this. And yet, it did make me laugh, but not for the reason you may think. The furious pedaling of the women who can't wait to see more is what tickled me.

This video was included in one of my favorite cycling ezines, RBR, or Road Bike Rider, to which I've been a subscriber for nearly all of its ten years of existence.

Eye Candy

2011-11-10T04:30:00.000-07:00

Couldn't resist playing around again...

Wordless Wednesday

2011-11-08T18:30:00.000-07:00

Trading Red for Red

2011-11-08T04:30:00.000-07:00

What do you do when you schedule four consecutive long weekends to shoot autumn color and snow takes out most of the leaves before the end of the second long weekend?

You go to Moab, of course!

Starflake Monday

2011-11-07T04:30:00.000-07:00

I had been planning to do another star for Veteran's Day when I received a request from Nanci Lawson. She asked if I might be able to pattern an ornament after a specific stained glass star, and her star just happens to be red, white and blue.

It would be difficult to top last year's Veteran's Day starflake story, so I won't even try. I have a strong patriotic streak, perhaps inspired by growing up near a military base. F-15s were always in the sky, and they were called the Proud Eagles.

Although my parents never served in the military, my dad serviced the radios and communications equipment at the base, and one of my brothers now fills that role. One of my brothers completed a 20-year stint with the Air Force. The Lizard's dad served as a police officer in the Air Force and then continued the same career in civilian life.

My dad's dad retired from the Navy after a tour of the Pacific during World War II. Among other duties, my grandpa played the trumpet in his ship's band, and he was a photographer.

I did not find out until just a few years ago my maternal grandfather also dabbled in photography during his Atlantic Theater tour with the Army during World War II. Among his European responsibilities was the building of a darkroom.

No wonder I have photo chemicals in my blood! Even though I'm all digital now.

You may do whatever you'd like with the starflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Finished Size: 5.5 inches across
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread in three colors (I used red, white and blue), size 7 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture (I did not glitter this flake), paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line NOTE: I used spray starch and an iron on cotton setting to stiffen these snowflakes.

Instructions

With red, ch 4, sl st into 1st ch OR make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 10 dc in ring, sl st across starting ch 2 and into starting dc. Pull magic circle tight.
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 3 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 3 dc in next st; repeat from * around 3 more times; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next st, *5 dc in next st (in middle dc of 3/dc group), 1 dc in each of next 3 st; repeat from * around 4 times, ending with 1 dc instead of 3 in last st on final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.
Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of next 3 st, *5 dc in next st (in middle dc of 5/dc group), 1 dc in each of next 7 st; repeat from * around 4 times, ending with 1 dc in each of last 3 st instead of 5 on final repeat; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2; bind off.
Round 5: With white, 1 dc in 4th dc of any 5/dc group, ch 1, *[sk 1 st, 1 dc in next st, ch 1] 5 times, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, [1 dc in same st, ch 1] 2 times (these st should be in middle dc of 5/dc group), 1 dc in next st, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times, omitting last dc and ch on final repeat; sl st in starting dc.
NOTE: You will now begin working in rows instead of rounds; working back and forth.
Row 6: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 1 dc in same st as sl st, *2 dc in each of next 6 ch 1 sp, ch 1, turn.
Row 7: 1 sc dec across next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 9 st, 1 sc dec across next 2 st, ch 2, turn.
Row 8: 1 dc dec across next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 7 st, 1 dc dec across next 2 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 9: 1 sc dec across next 2 st, 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 1 sc dec across next 2 st, ch 2, turn.
Row 10: 1 dc dec across next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st, 1 dc dec across next 2 st, ch 1, turn.
Row 11: 1 sc dec across next 2 st, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc dec across next 2 st, ch 2, turn.
Row 12: 1 dc dec across next 3 st; bind off.
With white and beginning on next side counter clockwise of pentagon, sk next 2 ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next ch 1 sp; repeat Rows 6-11 from * 4 times on each side of pentagon. Do not bind off on fifth and final point; ch 4. Do not turn.

Round 13: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *working down side of point, [1 dc, ch 1] 5 times, spacing evenly, to 1st sc row, 1 dc dec across next 2 ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next 1st sc row, ch 1, [1 dc, ch 1] 4 times up side of point, spacing evenly, to last dc row of point; in point work 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch1, 1 dc; repeat from * around 4 times, ending with 2 dc/ch sequence instead of 3 in same st as starting ch 4 on final repeat; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4; bind off.

Row 14: With red, sl st into 4th dc on left side of any point; 5 dc in dc dec between points; sl st in 2nd dc of next point, turn and sl st in 3rd dc of same point.

Row 15: 3 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc; sl st in middle dc of point, turn and sl st in 2nd dc of same point.

Row 16: 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc; sl st in 4th dc of point, turn and sl st in 5th dc of point.

Row 17: 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 9 dc, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc; sl st in 1st dc of point, turn and sl st in 3rd dc of tip.

Row 18: 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 13 dc, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc; sl st in 1st dc of tip; bind off.
Repeat Rows 13-17 4 times. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

The Big One

2011-11-04T04:30:00.003-06:00

Seven years ago tomorrow, I went under the knife.

Prior to surgery, I'd been told recovery would be six to eight weeks. When I woke up, groggy and disoriented, but lying on my back for the first time in two weeks, I was told the neurosurgeon did not remove what he'd thought was a defective disc. Instead, he'd found a dime-sized bone chip embedded in my sciatic nerve, and he removed that instead. All parts were still present and accounted for. But now recovery would be 24 to 36 months, and nerve damage could take up to seven years. IF it heals. IF. No promises, no guaranties. A very big IF.

I am prone to depression, particularly in winter, and in some ways, that has been the bigger battle than recovery from injury and surgery. There were a couple of very dark years in the last seven years. Granted, I could not walk before surgery; I had no choice but to undergo the procedure neither the doctor nor I knew he would be performing. The post-surgery pain and recovery was nothing compared to what the bone chip did during its brief foray chewing up my nerve and spitting it out. Yet there were days when I thought the pain would never end. From late 2006 or early 2007 throughout 2008, I thought I was done healing and stuck in that condition forever. It was not a pleasant condition.

I thought I'd never be able to ride my bike more than about 2 miles. I thought I'd never be able to climb another mountain. I thought I'd never be able to take my camera on hikes again. The pain often was more than I was able to bear. I've never suffered a gunshot wound and hope I never do, but that was the only way I could describe what the hole in my nerve felt like. I felt as if I had a bullet hole in my behind, and when it got bad, it radiated to the top of my head and the tips of my toes. I frequently experience spasms in my right hand, the side on which the nerve damage occurred.

Arthritis often sets in where a patient has been opened up, and I have a deep and penetrating family history with that little stumbling block with or without surgery. So cloudy days do not help. I dread the changing of the barometric pressure. During my very own, personal Dark Ages, my two pains joined forces to physically and emotionally whittle away at any determination I could muster.

Sometimes, the depression made it more difficult to get out of bed in the mornings than the pain did.

Sometimes, The Lizard had to remind me I was crawling up the stairs to my apartment before surgery. The discomfort of healing was no comparison to what life would have been without surgery.

For seven years, I have done everything I can to try to encourage and enable healing. Plenty of rest, lots of water, no caffeine, no red meat, and since 2006, no refined white sugar or white starch. I did (and still do) everything the doctors and physical therapists instructed. I took (and still take) every supplement (natural as well as man-made) designed to promote nerve healing and lessen the impact of arthritis. I maintain a diet and regime designed to support nerve regeneration and thwart arthritis. Annual checkup after annual checkup, I hear and obey, "The best thing I can tell you is to stay active."

Tomorrow is the forecast day of the end of healing, so to speak. Technically, the way I feel tomorrow morning is the way I feel from now on. The mending is over.

But I believe in miracles. In the most recent Star Trek movie, not-quite-captain Kirk explains why he cheated to beat the Kobayashi Maru: "I don't believe in no-win scenarios." Maybe that's why I love the movie so much. I don't believe in impossible. I don't believe in giving up. (William Shatner uttered the very same line in "The Wrath of Khan," but I didn't like that movie until "Search for Spock" came out because they'd killed off my favorite character!)

I still feel tiny morsels of improvement. Even now. There are days when I wake up pain-free. Few and far between, and often the sensation doesn't last long. But they happen. Three weeks ago while camping in Moab, I awoke one morning feeling as if surgery had been a bad dream, as if it never really happened. After four nights in a tent, on cold, hard ground! The old body was back after breakfast, but these moments still happen, and I have no reason to believe they will stop or occur less frequently just because a certain calendar day comes and goes.

Tomorrow is the anniversary of my surgery and the fabled end of recovery. I am on the verge of my first-ever 4,000-mile year. I am two months away from a 60-mile day every month this year but February, for the first time ever.

I am at the stage when the body supposedly quits improving and begins to slowly show its age. But I am getting stronger.

I read in Road Bike Rider last week that with proper training, diet and exercise, the body can continue to build muscle until you are well into your 90s.

I'm not 90 yet. And I intend to get there. Safely. Strongly. With both hands hanging on tightly and me wailing at the top of my lungs, "Man, what a ride!"

Hanger On-ers

2011-11-03T04:30:00.001-06:00

Wordless Wednesday

2011-11-01T18:28:00.000-06:00

... and sat down beside her...

2011-11-01T04:30:00.000-06:00

Snowflake Monday

2011-10-31T04:30:00.000-06:00

Ever since I first saw a multicolor spiral granny square last winter, I’ve wanted to learn the technique. Of course, I wanted to see if I could translate this new craze into snowflakes. Which would mean learning something new, trying something new, a new Collegiate Peak snowflake!

After I finished my first prototype spiral snowflake, though, I decided it needed a cuter name than Yale or Columbia. The first sample reminded me of lollipops my little brothers and I used to yearn for when we were pre-schoolers, and that’s a cute enough name for this snowflake AND hat! Yes, look what you can do with this pattern and worsted yarn, with a few modifications!

Snowflakes that followed as I worked up the pattern look like peppermints we use to build candy trains at Christmas time, but I still like the name Lollipop. It’s different, and it has a ring to it.

My Lollipop Snowflakes came at a time when I was forced to learn yet another new technique: making my own homemade glue. The last 200 or so snowflakes I’ve stiffened all have unacceptable residue on the back, and it doesn’t wash off. I tried turning the snowflakes over and applying a new coat on the back, hoping that would soften the shiny residue that looked... bad. I tried washing flakes with warm water and soap. I tried industrial-strength cleaners. I changed the plastic wrap I’ve been using all year long. I tried different drying surfaces.

After unsuccessfully trying everything from adding more water to the glue to dunking the snowflakes in bags of glue instead of painting them, nothing worked. Nothing helped. I could not figure out what I was doing wrong. I’ve been doing this for more than 20 years, and I’d never had this problem until the most recent purchase of glue.

I was so frustrated, I vocalized a degree of discontent. The Lizard overheard and came to my rescue. First thing he noticed was the label on the glue, something I’d not seen, even though I bought the bottle myself just a couple of months ago. I also had not noticed it is not "school glue." That may make a difference, too.

New and improved. Stronger Formula. And not appropriate for snowflakes. They don’t include that last phrase on the label. They should.

The Lizard suspects Elmer’s has added silicone to the formula, which he says is water-resistant.

After learning this, I purchased a few bottles of various generic school glue brands and researched recipes for homemade glue, which is how my grandmother stiffened snowflakes when I was a wee tot. I even found a bottle of clear Elmer’s Glue and decided to give that a try, too, just in case. When you’ve ruined 200 snowflakes, just about any option seems worth a try.

I found many web pages devoted to blocking doilies and a few for snowflakes. In my opinion, the most complete list of methods for blocking and stiffening on the internet is available at Crochet Memories. I did not try everything they’ve listed, but I did try a few of new things I’d never considered before. Such as hairspray...

In my opinion, hairspray works great for doilies but is not strong enough for snowflakes that will hang, and I beg to differ with anyone who thinks unscented is truly unscented. (Choke, choke!) Spray starch works well with small flakes, and the lavender-scented version is more tolerable than hair spray. Modge Podge works fine and leaves no residue, but snowflakes hung in the window will warp with continual sunshine. They can be reshaped, but that takes time. Some generic school glues work fine, and some seem to be Elmer’s in a cheaper bottle. I'm going to experiment with the clear Elmer's, Epsom salt and homemade glue next, and I'll report my findings. I'm not going to try sugar. I don't want to encourage the field mice who frequently attempt to take up residence inside our abode during winter.

As in most aspects of life, different people will like different things, so it may be best to experiment for yourself, or to change nothing if you haven’t been having any problems.

If multicolor spiral motifs seem intimidating, check out the tutorial at Interweave. Other tutorials are available, although I did not find one on YouTube. I asked The Lizard to photograph my hands while I made a worsted weight yarn spiral and am including the photos below.

The most important thing I learned in experimenting with this technique is to make sure I don’t catch threads or yarn not being used in current stitches. I think the spiral method works best if you are able to do the piece in one sitting so you don’t have to untangle balls of yarn or spools of thread after moving around. I also found that rotating my work one time counter-clockwise each round helped me keep the six strands of yarn or thread separate and not tangled.

Some people like to use stitch markers to hold the loops of the strands not currently in use. For thread, I think that might prove burdensome. I left large, over-sized loops each time I changed color, and the process worked fine. I did do each of my projects in one sitting, however. I don’t think it would be quite so easy if I’d had to put the project away and come back to it. I may even have resorted to cutting off the project and starting over again!

To make this project easier, I made small balls of yarn and thread and worked with those instead of full skeins, hanks or spools. Balls of fiber are like teenagers, however. If you are sitting in a very comfortable chair with three balls on either side, working away, one of the balls WILL find a way to roll off onto the floor, make a quick getaway and commit the unpardonable sin. It will find and pick up the renegade hair the vacuum cleaner always misses, and it will attempt to hide it deep inside your project, particularly if the project will ever be magnifying glass judged. Cats exacerbate the problem.

In most hat patterns (or any in-the-round projects other than snowflakes, stars and round ripple afghans), increases are not be worked directly above increases in the row below, maintaining a round shape instead of angles where increases are stacked. In these projects, however, the increases are intentionally lined up to maintain the hexagon snowflake shape. If you want your project to be circular instead of hexagonal, keep your increases evenly spaced apart, but don’t place them directly above one another.

The snowflakes may be made larger by adding more rows and increasing the number of stitches in between increases by one on each round. The hat, which I sized for my 2-year-old neighbor, may be made smaller or bigger by ending the increases earlier or maintaining increases longer. Generally when making a hat, you make a flat round piece until the piece is about 2 inches smaller than the diameter of the head. The hat will begin to take shape after two or three rounds of no increases. The length of the hat may be altered by working fewer or more rounds without increases. The hat also may be made without earflaps, ending the two earflap points the same as the other four instead of working earflaps.

You may do whatever you'd like with hats and snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Lollipop Snowflake

Finished Size: 4 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: With pink, 2 sc in ring. With peach, 2 sc in ring. With yellow, 2 sc in ring. With green, 2 sc in ring. With blue, 2 sc in ring. With lavender, 2 sc in ring. Do not join. Pull magic circle tight.

With pink, make magic ring. 2 sc in ring.

With peach, 2 sc in ring.

With yellow, 2 sc in ring.

With green, 2 sc in ring.

With blue, 2 sc in ring.

With lavender, 2 sc in ring.
Round 2: Continuing with lavender, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Continuing with lavender, 1 sc in 1st pink sc.

Continuing with lavender, 2 sc in 2nd pink sc.

Continue working 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, changing colors after each 2 sc inc, around.
Round 3: With blue, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 2sc, 2 sc in next sc.

With blue, work 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Continue working 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, changing colors after each 2 sc inc, around.
Round 4: With green, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc.
Round 5: With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With green, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc.
Round 6: With peach, 1 dc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc.
Round 7: With pink, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc.
Round 8: With pink, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc.
Round 9: With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 5, sl st in top of dc just worked, ch 8, sl st in same dc, ch 5, sl st in same dc (tri picot made); bind off. With pink, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot, bind off. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. With green, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap. NOTE: I did not glitter these flakes.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Lollipop Snowflake Hat

Finished Size: 5 inches high, not including braids or earflaps; 3.5-inch long earflaps, head circumference 22.5 inches
Materials: Worsted yarn in six colors (I used pastel pink, lavender, blue, green, yellow and peach), size H crochet hook

Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: With pink, 2 sc in ring. With peach, 2 sc in ring. With yellow, 2 sc in ring. With green, 2 sc in ring. With blue, 2 sc in ring. With lavender, 2 sc in ring. Do not join. Pull magic circle tight.
Round 2: Continuing with lavender, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc.
Round 3: With blue, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 2sc, 2 sc in next sc.
Round 4: With green, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
Round 5: With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
Round 6: With peach, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
Round 7: With pink, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
Round 8: With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With green, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc.
Round 9: With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc.
Round 10: With green, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc.
Round 11: With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 20 hdc. With green, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc.
Round 12: With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc.
Round 13: With pink, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc..
Round 14: With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 20 dc. With pink, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc.
Round 15: With blue, 1 dc in each of next 20 dc, ch 5, sl st in top of dc just worked, ch 6, sl st in same dc, ch 5, sl st in same dc (picot made); bind off. With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 10. With pink, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc; make picot; bind off. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc; make picot; bind off. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc; make picot; bind off. Making first earflap, with lavender, *1 dc in each of next 11 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc (earflap tip made); bind off. Repeat from * with yellow to form 2nd earflap. NOTE: Earflaps may be worked in pink and green or blue and orange instead if desired. Weave in all ends.

Finish: For braids, cut six 40-inch strands of each color. Fold first color of strands in half, pinch near fold and pull fold through top of one earflap tip dc with crochet hook. Insert hook through fold loop just created and pull strand ends through loop. Pull tight. Repeat for each of next 5 colors, placing one strand group in each earflap tip dc. Braid strand groups on each side, tightly tie with 6-inch piece of yarn matching one of the colors in the braid. Trim braids and ties evenly.

Friday Funny

2011-10-28T04:30:00.001-06:00

Vested Interest

2011-10-27T04:31:00.000-06:00

Last year's Christmas socks, presented to all my dear friends.

I have a ton of leftovers from last year's Christmas sock project. October was knocking on my door, so in the spirit of Halloween, time for yet another Monster project.

I was pretty discouraged after failing to make it up Pikes Peak again this year, and at about the same time, I needed a break from snowflakes.

So I pulled out my sock yarn leftovers and dug out a favorite sewing pattern for shaping guidance, then created another leftovers project, a Monster Vest, with colors that stalled my seasonal slide into winter doldrums and provided a much-needed boost of self-confidence.