This is what my SmugMug photography website has looked like for the past five or so years. LOTS of scrolling. Customizations took a long time, and I was never able to fully customize my site to what I could see in my head because I just don't speak Java that well. But I was happy with how my website looked and how it was organized.
This is what my SmugMug website looks like now. No more miles of scrolling! (At least not on the front page.)
SmugMug recently upgraded in a big way. I had to migrate all my galleries to the new and improved SmugMug site (and trust that everything would make the move) (and smack dab in the middle of retouching 700 wedding shots and 100 senior portraits, to boot). Full customization is possible now (although not via Internet Exploder!!!) if gallery owners are willing to tinker. Customization supposedly is much faster and easier. I'm willing to tinker, but I don't always have adequate or easily available internet access. Or choice of browsers. Grrr.
Considering I must spend hours with our laptop at a coffee shop, grocery store, library, bookstore or hotel to fully customize (or upload photos, or post to my blog, or just about anything I want to do on the internet), I wouldn't say the new SmugMug is necessarily faster or easier to customize. No more Java, easier CSS, but I'm still learning a new language. Yet I'm slowly working through the bugs and learning the new system. I still have work to do, and one day I hope to build my own theme instead of using a template SmugMug theme, but for right now, I think I like what I've done so far.