31 October 2011

Snowflake Monday

Lollipop Snowflakes

Ever since I first saw a multicolor spiral granny square last winter, I’ve wanted to learn the technique. Of course, I wanted to see if I could translate this new craze into snowflakes. Which would mean learning something new, trying something new, a new Collegiate Peak snowflake!

After I finished my first prototype spiral snowflake, though, I decided it needed a cuter name than Yale or Columbia. The first sample reminded me of lollipops my little brothers and I used to yearn for when we were pre-schoolers, and that’s a cute enough name for this snowflake AND hat! Yes, look what you can do with this pattern and worsted yarn, with a few modifications!

Lollipop Snowflake Hat

Snowflakes that followed as I worked up the pattern look like peppermints we use to build candy trains at Christmas time, but I still like the name Lollipop. It's different, and it has a ring to it.

My Lollipop Snowflakes came at a time when I was forced to learn yet another new technique: making my own homemade glue. The last 200 or so snowflakes I've stiffened all have unacceptable residue on the back, and it doesn't wash off. I tried turning the snowflakes over and applying a new coat on the back, hoping that would soften the shiny residue that looked... bad. I tried washing flakes with warm water and soap. I tried industrial-strength cleaners. I changed the plastic wrap I've been using all year long. I tried different drying surfaces.

After unsuccessfully trying everything from adding more water to the glue to dunking the snowflakes in bags of glue instead of painting them, nothing worked. Nothing helped. I could not figure out what I was doing wrong. I've been doing this for more than 20 years, and I'd never had this problem until the most recent purchase of glue.

sticky stuff
I was so frustrated, I vocalized a degree of discontent. The Lizard overheard and came to my rescue. First thing he noticed was the label on the glue, something I'd not seen, even though I bought the bottle myself just a couple of months ago. I also had not noticed it is not "school glue." That may make a difference, too.

New and improved. Stronger Formula. And not appropriate for snowflakes. They don't include that last phrase on the label. They should.

The Lizard suspects Elmer's has added silicone to the formula, which he says is water-resistant.

After learning this, I purchased a few bottles of various generic school glue brands and researched recipes for homemade glue, which is how my grandmother stiffened snowflakes when I was a wee tot. I even found a bottle of clear Elmer's Glue and decided to give that a try, too, just in case. When you’ve ruined 200 snowflakes, just about any option seems worth a try.

Cinnamon Swirl Lollipop Snowflake

I found many web pages devoted to blocking doilies and a few for snowflakes. In my opinion, the most complete list of methods for blocking and stiffening on the internet is available at Crochet Memories. I did not try everything they've listed, but I did try a few of new things I’d never considered before. Such as hairspray...

In my opinion, hairspray works great for doilies but is not strong enough for snowflakes that will hang, and I beg to differ with anyone who thinks unscented is truly unscented. (Choke, choke!) Spray starch works well with small flakes, and the lavender-scented version is more tolerable than hair spray. Modge Podge works fine and leaves no residue, but snowflakes hung in the window will warp with continual sunshine. They can be reshaped, but that takes time. Some generic school glues work fine, and some seem to be Elmer’s in a cheaper bottle. I'm going to experiment with the clear Elmer's, Epsom salt and homemade glue next, and I'll report my findings. I'm not going to try sugar. I don't want to encourage the field mice who frequently attempt to take up residence inside our abode during winter.

As in most aspects of life, different people will like different things, so it may be best to experiment for yourself, or to change nothing if you haven’t been having any problems.

Christmas Mint Lollipop Snowflake

If multicolor spiral motifs seem intimidating, check out the tutorial at Interweave. Other tutorials are available, although I did not find one on YouTube. I asked The Lizard to photograph my hands while I made a worsted weight yarn spiral and am including the photos below.

The most important thing I learned in experimenting with this technique is to make sure I don’t catch threads or yarn not being used in current stitches. I think the spiral method works best if you are able to do the piece in one sitting so you don’t have to untangle balls of yarn or spools of thread after moving around. I also found that rotating my work one time counter-clockwise each round helped me keep the six strands of yarn or thread separate and not tangled.

Some people like to use stitch markers to hold the loops of the strands not currently in use. For thread, I think that might prove burdensome. I left large, over-sized loops each time I changed color, and the process worked fine. I did do each of my projects in one sitting, however. I don’t think it would be quite so easy if I’d had to put the project away and come back to it. I may even have resorted to cutting off the project and starting over again!

an all-single crochet version

To make this project easier, I made small balls of yarn and thread and worked with those instead of full skeins, hanks or spools. Balls of fiber are like teenagers, however. If you are sitting in a very comfortable chair with three balls on either side, working away, one of the balls WILL find a way to roll off onto the floor, make a quick getaway and commit the unpardonable sin. It will find and pick up the renegade hair the vacuum cleaner always misses, and it will attempt to hide it deep inside your project, particularly if the project will ever be magnifying glass judged. Cats exacerbate the problem.

In most hat patterns (or any in-the-round projects other than snowflakes, stars and round ripple afghans), increases are not be worked directly above increases in the row below, maintaining a round shape instead of angles where increases are stacked. In these projects, however, the increases are intentionally lined up to maintain the hexagon snowflake shape. If you want your project to be circular instead of hexagonal, keep your increases evenly spaced apart, but don’t place them directly above one another.

The snowflakes may be made larger by adding more rows and increasing the number of stitches in between increases by one on each round. The hat, which I sized for my 2-year-old neighbor, may be made smaller or bigger by ending the increases earlier or maintaining increases longer. Generally when making a hat, you make a flat round piece until the piece is about 2 inches smaller than the diameter of the head. The hat will begin to take shape after two or three rounds of no increases. The length of the hat may be altered by working fewer or more rounds without increases. The hat also may be made without earflaps, ending the two earflap points the same as the other four instead of working earflaps.

You may do whatever you'd like with hats and snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Pastel Lollipop Snowflake

Lollipop Snowflake

Finished Size: 4 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: With pink, 2 sc in ring. With peach, 2 sc in ring. With yellow, 2 sc in ring. With green, 2 sc in ring. With blue, 2 sc in ring. With lavender, 2 sc in ring. Do not join. Pull magic circle tight.

With pink, make magic ring.  2 sc in ring.
With pink, make magic ring. 2 sc in ring.

With peach, 2 sc in ring.
With peach, 2 sc in ring.

With yellow, 2 sc in ring.
With yellow, 2 sc in ring.

With green, 2 sc in ring.
With green, 2 sc in ring.

With blue, 2 sc in ring.
With blue, 2 sc in ring.

With lavender, 2 sc in ring.
With lavender, 2 sc in ring.

Round 2: Continuing with lavender, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Continuing with lavender, 1 sc in 1st pink sc.
Continuing with lavender, 1 sc in 1st pink sc.

Continuing with lavender, 2 sc in 2nd pink sc.
Continuing with lavender, 2 sc in 2nd pink sc.

Continue working 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, changing colors after each 2 sc inc, around.
Continue working 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, changing colors after each 2 sc inc, around.

Round 3: With blue, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 2sc, 2 sc in next sc.

With blue, work 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
With blue, work 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Continue working 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, changing colors after each 2 sc inc, around.
Continue working 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, changing colors after each 2 sc inc, around.

Round 4: With green, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc.

Round 5: With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With green, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 6: With peach, 1 dc in each of next 4 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc.

Round 7: With pink, 1 dc in each of next 5 hdc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc.

Round 8: With pink, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc.

Round 9: With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 5, sl st in top of dc just worked, ch 8, sl st in same dc, ch 5, sl st in same dc (tri picot made); bind off. With pink, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot, bind off. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. With green, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc; make tri picot; bind off. Weave in ends.

Ocean Waves Lollipop Snowflake (named by The Lizard)

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap. NOTE: I did not glitter these flakes.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Lollipop Snowflake Hat

Lollipop Snowflake Hat Instructions

Finished Size: 5 inches high, not including braids or earflaps; 3.5-inch long earflaps, head circumference 22.5 inches
Materials: Worsted yarn in six colors (I used pastel pink, lavender, blue, green, yellow and peach), size H crochet hook

Make magic ring.

Round 1: With pink, 2 sc in ring. With peach, 2 sc in ring. With yellow, 2 sc in ring. With green, 2 sc in ring. With blue, 2 sc in ring. With lavender, 2 sc in ring. Do not join. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Continuing with lavender, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Round 3: With blue, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 2sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Round 4: With green, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Round 5: With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With pink, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Round 6: With peach, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Round 7: With pink, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With peach, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With yellow, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With green, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. With blue, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc.

Round 8: With lavender, 1 sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc. With green, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc.

Round 9: With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc. With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc.

Round 10: With green, 1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc.

Round 11: With yellow, 1 hdc in each of next 20 hdc. With green, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With blue, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With lavender, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc. With pink, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc.

Round 12: With peach, 1 hdc in each of next 10 hdc, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc. With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc.

Round 13: With pink, 1 dc in each of next 10 hdc, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With blue, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc..

Round 14: With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 20 dc. With pink, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 15: With blue, 1 dc in each of next 20 dc, ch 5, sl st in top of dc just worked, ch 6, sl st in same dc, ch 5, sl st in same dc (picot made); bind off. With lavender, 1 dc in each of next 10. With pink, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc; make picot; bind off. With peach, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc; make picot; bind off. With yellow, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc. With green, 1 dc in each of next 10 dc; make picot; bind off. Making first earflap, with lavender, *1 dc in each of next 11 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc, ch 2, turn, 1 dc dec across next 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc dec across last 2 dc (earflap tip made); bind off. Repeat from * with yellow to form 2nd earflap. NOTE: Earflaps may be worked in pink and green or blue and orange instead if desired. Weave in all ends.

Finish: For braids, cut six 40-inch strands of each color. Fold first color of strands in half, pinch near fold and pull fold through top of one earflap tip dc with crochet hook. Insert hook through fold loop just created and pull strand ends through loop. Pull tight. Repeat for each of next 5 colors, placing one strand group in each earflap tip dc. Braid strand groups on each side, tightly tie with 6-inch piece of yarn matching one of the colors in the braid. Trim braids and ties evenly.

Lollipop Snowflake Hat

27 October 2011

Vested Interest

Sock Tree

Last year's Christmas socks, presented to all my dear friends.

sock yarn leftovers

more leftovers

bigger leftovers

I have a ton of leftovers from last year's Christmas sock project. October was knocking on my door, so in the spirit of Halloween, time for yet another Monster project.

I was pretty discouraged after failing to make it up Pikes Peak again this year, and at about the same time, I needed a break from snowflakes.

So I pulled out my sock yarn leftovers and dug out a favorite sewing pattern for shaping guidance, then created another leftovers project, a Monster Vest, with colors that stalled my seasonal slide into winter doldrums and provided a much-needed boost of self-confidence.

It's working!

ta da!

stripes galore

finis

25 October 2011

Wordless Wednesday

Corona Arch

We arrived just in time to see something we did not expect.

next...

bundles of nerves

the teacher

perspective

sweet ground

One Happy Lizard

a face for Halloween

texture

Fall Blaze Hat

Tiki and Friend

I designed this hat using a yarn colorway called Tiki the first week of April, but the mathematical aspect was more of a challenge than I could compute while bicycle-brained. We had a 16-hour round trip drive to Durango at the end of September, and I needed to finish a WIP (work in progress) for brig points during the Starfleet Fiber Arts Corps fall break. So I took along the hat, a skein of hummingbird-colored yarn and my pattern notes to work on in the car.

I got zero crocheting done the first six hours of the drive because I couldn't peel my eyes from the gorgeous golden autumn leaves. I filled a memory card taking pictures about every 15 minutes or so. "Oh, can we stop here?" "Please, let's stop again!" "That's spectacular! Can we please stop one more time?" "Oh, look! Oh, we HAVE to stop here!"

This put us in danger of missing our Fall Blaze packet pickup, so The Lizard directed me to crochet and not look at the leaves from Ouray to Durango, the most scenic part of our drive.

I finished the hat that night in our hotel room and then cleaned up the pattern so I could photographically turn the project in for my Ravelry points, then rode 47 miles the following day to benefit the Fort Lewis College Skyhawk cycling team. My ride included 20 seconds alongside 4th place USA Pro Cycling Challenge (Tour of Colorado) finisher Tom Danielson! After a good night's rest, The Lizard and I hit the road again, and I shot a ton more pictures between Durango and Ouray, filling another memory card. I didn't miss out after all!

When I first designed the hat, I was going to name it Tiki after the colorway. That name didn't fit the second hat in peacock blue, pink, emerald and violet, and I wasn't too enthusiastic about naming the hat Hummingbird. I like naming my designs after places I've been and want to go, so I tossed around a few ideas before seeking a second opinion. Because the pattern was finalized during our mini vacation, I asked The Lizard if I should name the hat Durango, Animas (the river flowing into Durango) or Fall Blaze. The Lizard really took to Fall Blaze. I decided it would be cool to make a third hat in autumn leaf colors before publishing the pattern.

Hummingbird

Back home, a skein of Online Supersocke was the closest thing I had to fall hues. We do not have many pink leaves in Colorado, but October also is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, so pink and shades of quaking aspens go hand in hand this time of year. And this is one of the coolest colorways I own. Definitely Fall Blaze!

The stitch used in this pattern coordinates with Cowlin' Around, Susie Socks and Spring Stripes fingerless gloves.

You may do whatever you'd like with hats you make from this pattern, but you may not sell or republish the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

fall blaze

Fall Blaze Hat

Materials: 1 50-gram ball of self-striping sock yarn (I used Felici in Tiki colorway for the first hat, Felici in Hummingbird colorway for the second hat and Online Wellness II in 1202 colorway for the third hat) and, if desired, a small amount of solid sock yarn in a coordinating color for knitted ribbed edge (I used Palette in Conch colorway for the Tiki hat), size 3 dpns, size B crochet hook. NOTE: 1 50-gram ball of sock yarn is sufficient for one hat and same-color knitted ribbed edge. Using a solid color for the knitted edge leaves enough of the self-striping yarn to make a pair of matching fingerless gloves.

NOTE: This pattern now includes three crocheted edging options for non-knitters.

Finished Size: 8 inches from top to bottom, 11.5 inches across widest point, folded in half
Gauge: 14 dc=2 inches or 5 cms; 6 dc rows=2 inches or 5 cms
Pattern is worked in multiples of 8 stitches.

Instructions

This project is worked in the round and has no seam.

Using crochet hook and main color, ch 4 or make magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as dc on this round), 12 dc in ring, sl st across starting ch 2 into 1st dc. Pull magic ring tight.

Round 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), *1 dc in next st, ch 2; repeat from * around for a total of 12 dc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 5.

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last dc of final repeat, for a total of 6 ch/2 points.

Round 4: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), *1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3/dc group, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3; repeat from * around, ending with 1 dc in 2nd ch of starting ch of Round 3 instead of last 2 dc of final repeat; ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 6 for a total of 18 ch 3 spaces.

Round 5: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), 1 dc in starting ch 6 sp of Round 4, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in same sc, ch 1, *1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in same sc, ch 1; repeat from * around 4 times; ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4; total of 42 dc.

Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around for a total of 84 dc; st st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. (OR, Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp and in each ch 1 sp around for a total of 84 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.)

Round 7: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around, increasing 6 dc and 6 ch 1 spaces evenly spaced around for a total of 48 dc and 48 ch 1 sp; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

Round 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around for a total of 12 ch/2 points, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last dc on final repeat.

Round 9: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), *1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3/dc group, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3; repeat from * around, ending with 1 dc in final sl st of Round 8, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 6 instead of last dc/ch3 of final repeat for a total of 36 ch 3 spaces.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 10: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), [1dc, ch 1] in each ch 3 sp and in each dc and in each sc around, increasing 18 dc and 18 ch 1 spaces evenly spaced around for a total of 84 dc and 84 ch 1 sp; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.

Round 11: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. (OR, Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.)

Round 12: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around for a total of 84 dc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.
Round 13: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), *sk 1 dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same dc, sk next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around for a total of 21 ch/2 tips, ending with sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2 instead of last dc of final repeat.

Round 14: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), *1 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3/dc group, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3; repeat from * around for a total of 42 ch/3 sp, ending with sl st in 3rdnd ch of starting ch 6 instead of last dc of final repeat.

Round 15: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around for a total of 84 dc, ending with sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4 instead of last dc on final repeat.

Round 16: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2. (OR, Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp around for a total of 168 dc; sl st in 2nd ch of starting ch 2.)

Round 17: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *sk 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around for a total of 84 dc; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 4.
Rounds 18-22: Repeat Rounds 13-16; change to coordinating color if using a solid color for knitted edge.

Round 23: With knitting needles, pick up 1 st in each st around, skipping every 7th stitch (pick up 6 stitches, skip one stitch) for a total of 144 loops on needles.

Rounds 24-35: *K 2, p 2; repeat from * around.

Round 36: Bind off; weave in ends. Wear and stay pleasantly warm!

sunburst

Hummingbird and Friend

UPDATE: Many non-knitters have requested a crocheted edge, so I’ve worked up three options. Instructions follow below.

Rolled-brim hat or tuque

Roll-up Brim (Tuque)

This is the warmest option but also requires the most yarn. If you are using a 50-gram skein or hank of yarn, you probably won’t have enough left over to make fingerless gloves, too.

Rounds 23-32: Turn and work from inside of hat. (I did not do this in the sample shown because I didn’t think of it until I finished and realized it would look better that way.) Repeat Rounds 13-16 twice (or 3 times for a wider brim).

Round 33: *1 sc in each of next 7 st, sk next st; repeat from * around; sl st in starting sc.
Round 34: 1 sc in each st around; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends. Fold up about 2 inches of rim of hat twice.

crocheted rib edging

Crocheted Rib Brim

I did not finish making this edging because I don’t like crocheted ribs. I’ve included this option, however, because it is a popular stitch among non-knitters. An excellent front post double crochet tutorial is available here.

After Round 22, ch 8. Turn
Row 1: With inside of hat facing you, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 4 ch, yo and draw up loop through final ch, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop, draw through 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop, draw through 2 loops on hook (1 joining dc made); sl st in next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat), turn, sl st in next hat hody dc (go in through inside of hat). These 2 sl st count as the ch 2 beginning of the next row you would be making if you weren’t attaching the rim to the hat as you go.

Don't forget to do the first stitch on each row.

Bring up loop through next hat dc.

Bring up next loop through next hat dc.

Sl st in next hat dc.

Sl st in next had dc from inside.

Fpdc in joining dc just made.

Row 2: Fpdc across; do not forget to do the first and last st so you will have a total of 6 dc when done. Ch 2; turn.

To make fpdc, insert hook under next stitch and back up.

To make joining fpdc, bring up loop through next hat dc.

Row 3: Fpdc across the first 5 st (don’t forget to do the first st), yo, draw up loop from beneath post of final dc, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop, draw through 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat) and pull up loop; draw through 2 loops on hook (1 joining fpdc made); sl st in next hat body dc (go in through right side of hat), turn, sl st in next hat body dc (go in through inside of hat).

crocheted rib edging

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 all the way around, joining Row 1 to final Row by pulling 2nd dc loop through corresponding stitches on Row 1 and bind off; weave in ends; OR work final Row normal, bind off leaving a long tail. Use tail to sew up ribbing. Weave in ends.

Cloche Edging

Cloche Brim

This is my favorite of the crocheted edgings.

Round 23: Repeat Round 17, increasing 8 dc evenly spaced around for a total of 92 dc.

Round 24: Repeat Round 13 for a total of 23 ch 2 points. Bind off. Weave in ends.

Knitted Rib Edging

Of course, I still think the knitted rim is the best!
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