30 November 2010

Wordless Wednesday

Lizard Christmas Cactus
Lizard Christmas Cactus
Pagosa Christmas Cactus
The first Christmas Cactus The Lizard brought me!
Lizard Christmas Cactus
Lizard Christmas Cactus
The first Christmas Cactus I bought
The first Christmas Cactus The Lizard ever gave me!

Project Blizzard

sunrises in November are the most radiant
warm fingers!
backpack buddies
tiny sock heaven
indoor winter pepper buds
indoor tomato
A Hard Year's Work
Bejeweled
Snowflake Sunrise
I was so excited to accidentally stumble upon Project Smile because I, too, suffer from lack of daylight during winter, and it forces me to battle bouts of depression.

All winter long, I tell myself I have nothing to be depressed about. I fight to maintain a smile even when tears are looking for any means of escape. November is always one of the most difficult months for me, perhaps due in part to the time change. I've worked very hard to minimize the pressure I put on myself during November during the last couple of years. I try to be more realistic about the goals I set, and I realize, when unexpected and unwanted sadness hits, it's up to me to try to find daylight and time for me.

Project Smile provides me with a new technique to winter fight depression. It challenges me to find reasons to smile instead of fighting tears I often don't understand.

I don't get the daylight I crave in November, and work and volunteer deadlines keep me off my bike, away from my camera and mostly indoors. So I wasn't able to go searching for my favorite kinds of smiles this month, but I did manage to pull off quite a few.

One of my best November smiles was not a photo, but was so overwhelming, I have to share it. I made The Lizard's favorite treat, a homemade German chocolate cake with no sugar (although he probably likes it just fine WITH sugar!!!). I'd been threatening all summer to throw some coconut in the cake next time I made it, not just the icing, and this time, I finally followed through.

The Lizard happily devoured his first piece. He dove in for seconds. He took a big bite, then pulled this tan-colored, baked paper-looking thing out of his cake and dashed up the stairs to inquire, "What's this?!?"

"Coconut. Fresh, tasty coconut," I responded. He stared at it quizzically for a moment, then stuffed the swollen bite of chocolate-soiled coconut in his mouth, chewed and smiled.

"Oh, okay," he grinned. "I knew you wouldn't try to poison me or anything like that."

Not on your life!!!

Be sure to check out the other Project Smile posts, and keep smiling! We're going to make it through two more dark months!

29 November 2010

Snowflake Monday

I stocked up on snowflake patterns so I would have enough to make it through November and even part of December while I was too busy with my annual service project to do much of anything else. But I kept coming up with ideas, and I needed a break from intense Photoshopping, so I didn't use any of my snowflake storage. Until now.

I actually have two more ideas I want to do before Christmas, but my service project deadline is looming, so I don't have time to write another pattern until my retouching responsibilities are done.

I designed this flake months ago while waiting for my slow internet dial-up connection to load a new virus software program. Because we caught a bug! Ugh!

So this snowflake was a pleasant distraction then, and it serves the very same purpose now. This is my Distraction Flake. And yes, I've heard it has been called the "Naughty Flake" when pinned just right... That was NOT my idea!

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Distraction Snowflake
Finished Size: 6.25 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 11 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or foil, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Distraction Snowflake Instructions

Make magic ring.

Round 1: 12 sc in ring, sl st in starting sc. Do not pull magic ring too tight.

Round 2: Sc in same sc, *ch 6, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * around 4 times, Ch 3, tr in starting sc to form 6th petal.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as first tr), 2 tr around tr post just made, *ch 10, 3 tr in next ch 6 sp; repeat from * around 5 times; ch 10, sl st in 4th ch of starting ch 4.

Round 4: Sc same stitch and in next 2 tr, *ch 6, in next ch 10 petal work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 6, sc in each of next 3 tr; repeat from * around 4 times, ending with sl st in starting sc instead of sc in each of next 3 tr.

Round 5: Sc in next sc, *ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 [dc], ch 1, turn; working on back side of flake, 1 sc in next dc, 2 hdc in next dc, in ch 2 sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, in next dc work 2 hdc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 1, turn; working from right side of flake, 1 dc in each of next 4 stitches, in ch 2 sp work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 stitches, ch 3, sl st in sc, sl st in top of 2nd [dc] where you turned to work from back of flake, ch 8, sc in middle sc; repeat from * around 5 times, ending with sl st in starting sc on last repeat instead of sc in middle sc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or foil to top of empty pizza box. Pin snowflake to box on top of wax paper or foil.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint snowflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or foil. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the snowflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

22 November 2010

Snowflake Monday

Northern Lights Snowflake
My grandmother always taught me the back of my embroidery and crewel needed to be as beautiful as the front. I'm so relieved Grandma can't see the back of this snowflake or the inside of this penguin!

Northern Lights SnowflakeThe snowflake patterns used in this piece of art are basically the same as the Turkey Flake pattern I shared last week. My Northern Lights Snowflakes have far more color changes and therefore many more knots and tons more ends to weave in when done. I waited until after the first round of stiffening to clip off stray and runaway ends. That way, there's no chance they can unravel.

The penguin in this pattern is basically a single crochet tube with two decreases at the neck and alternating row increases beyond that. The Arctic Sunrise Snowflake is worked with five points and one flat side, just like last week's layered flakes, and with six points in the harp seal version, with the sixth point stiffened over the side of my pizza box to form the iceberg shelf. Numerous color changes, often within rows, make this pattern difficult. For the penguin, I carried my thread across the back of my work (the inside of the penguin) as I would in intarsia knitting instead of tying knots at every color change.

Even though I would rate this pattern as difficult, this is my favorite snowflake pattern to date. (I know, I've said that three times before!) I loved working with different colors of thread. I definitely will be exploring different ways and reasons to incorporate color into snowflakes in the future. Except for the knots, my Northern Lights Snowflake was tons of fun for me.

Northern Lights SnowflakeI have not written the patterns for the polar bear, igloo or harp seal yet and probably will not have a chance to do so for a long while, but free patterns are available for similar creations in the Yahoo Thread Animal Group and on Crochet Pattern Central. My polar bear actually is not shown; he's still awaiting assembly. It's time to publish, and I've got snowflakes still drying! So the photos are not all final products. For my polar bear, I used antique white, and he will have black seed bead eyes and nose, and he won't be wearing a cute little bow. I also experimented with different colors for my northern lights in my third, fourth and fifth flakes, as Ti insists Alaskan night skies can have touches of red. Only a couple of my variations have been included in photos here. The rest are still pinned to pizza boxes, even though I tried speeding the drying process with my hair dryer!

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Northern Lights Snowflakes
Finished Size: 9 inches from point to point
Materials:
Penguin: Size 10 crochet thread in white, black and golden yellow, size 8 crochet hook, 2 seed beads, fiber fill
Northern Lights Snowflake: Size 10 crochet thread in white, sage, myrtle green, ocean variegated, lavender, mint green and navy, size 8 crochet hook
Arctic Sunrise Snowflake: Size 10 crochet thread in pale yellow, peach, mauve, pastel blue, royal blue and navy, size 8 crochet hook

Instructions

Northern Light Snowflake Pieces
Northern Lights Snowflake, First Piece

With white, make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as dc).
Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 36 dc; sl st in 1st dc. Bind off and weave in end.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 4: Starting in any dc and working with sage, work 3 sc across 3 dc, *ch 2, sk 1 dc, in next dc work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] (V-stitch made), ch 2, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; repeat from * around 3 times but finishing final sc of 3rd repeat by joining white, pulling up sage loop through 3rd dc, yo with white to finish sc; bind off sage; working with white, repeat from * 2 more times but omitting final 3 sc for a total of 6 points; ch2, sl st in starting sc; bind off.

Round 5: With myrtle green, *1 sc in middle sc of first sage 3 sc group, ch 4, in next ch 1 sp work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] (2 small shells made), ch 4; repeat from * around 3 times, join white, pull up myrtle green loop through next middle sc, yo with white to finish sc; bind off myrtle green; with white ch 4, in next ch 1 sp work 2 small shells, ch 4, 1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc group, ch 4, in next ch 1 sp work 2 small shells, ch 4; sl st in starting sc; bind off.

Round 6: With ocean variegated, *1 sc over starting myrtle green sc in to middle sc of sage 3 sc group below, ch 6, in next ch 1 sp work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] (2 shells made), ch 6; repeat from * around 3 times, join white, pull up ocean variegated loop through next middle sc, yo with white to finish sc; bind off ocean variegated; with white ch 6, in next ch 1 sp work 2 shells, ch 6, 1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc group, ch 6, in next ch 1 sp work 2 shells, ch 6; sl st in starting sc; bind off.

Round 7: With lavender, *1 sc over ocean variegated sc into myrtle sc of previous row, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work [2 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc], ch 8; repeat from * around 3 more times; join white, pull up lavender loop through next ocean variegated sc, yo with white to finish sc; bind off lavender; with white, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work [2 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc], ch 8, 1 sc into next myrtle sc, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work [2 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc], ch 8; sl st into starting sc; bind off.

Round 8: With mint green, *1 sc over sc of previous row, ch 10, in next ch 2 sp work [1 dc, 2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr, 1 dc], ch 10; repeat from * around 3 more times; join white, pull up mint green loop through next lavender sc, yo with white to finish sc; bind off mint green; with white, ch 10, in next ch 2 sp work [1 dc, 2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr, 1 dc], ch 10, 1 sc into next lavender sc, ch 10, in next ch 2 sp work [1 dc, 2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr, 1 dc], ch 10; sl st into starting sc; bind off.

Round 9: With navy, *1 sc over sc of previous row, ch 12, in next ch 2 sp work [3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr], ch 12; repeat from * around 3 more times; join white, pull up navy loop through next mint green sc, yo with white to finish sc; bind off navy; with white, ch 12, in next ch 2 sp work [3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr], ch 12, 1 sc into next mint green sc, ch 12, in next ch 2 sp work [3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr], ch 12; sl st into starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends. Take a nice, relaxing break if needed and treat yourself to something you enjoy immensely. Take a deep breath, and get ready for the Arctic Sunrise Snowflake, which is easier than what you just completed because it has fewer rounds and therefore fewer color changes and knots.

Assembled Northern Lights Snowflakes
Arctic Sunrise Snowflake, Second Piece

With pale yellow, make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as dc).

Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Round 3: With peach and starting in any dc, ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 36 dc; sl st in 1st dc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Round 4: With mauve, starting in any dc, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc, *ch 2, sk 1 dc, in next dc work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] (V-stitch made), ch 2, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; repeat from * around 2 times; ch 2, sk next dc, 1 dc in next dc, join white and bind off mauve; sk next dc, 2 sc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 2; in same dc as starting ch 5 work 1 dc, ch 1; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 5. Bind off. Weave in ends.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 5: With light blue, working in first half mauve V-space, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in same sp, *ch 4, 1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc, ch 4, in next ch 1 sp work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] (2 small shells made); repeat from * around 2 times; 1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc, ch 4, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, join white and bind off light blue, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp, ch 4, sk 1 sc, 1 sc in each of next 9 sc, sk next sc, ch 4, 2 dc in next V-space, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3; bind off. Weave in ends.

Round 6: With royal blue, working in first ch 2 sp between small shells, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 6, 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 2 rows below, over sc in previous row, ch 6, in next ch 2 sp work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] (2 shells made); repeat from * around 2 more times; 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 2 rows below over sc of previous row, ch 6, 3 dc in next ch 2 sp, bind off royal blue and join white, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, ch 6, sk next sc, 1 sc in each of next 7 sc, sk next sc, ch 6, 3 dc between next 2 shells; ch 2, st st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3; bind off. Weave in ends.

Round 7: With navy, working in first ch 2 sp between shells, ch 4 (counts as 1 tr), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 8, 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 3 rows below, over sc of 2 previous rows, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work [2 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc]; repeat from * around 2 more times; ch 8, 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 3 rows below over sc of 2 previous rows, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work 2 dc and 1 tr, bind off navy and join white, ch 2, in same sp work 1 tr and 2 dc, ch 8, sk 1 sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, ch 8, sk next sc, 2 dc between next 2 shells, 1 tr in same sp; ch 2, sl st in 4th ch of starting ch 4; bind off. Weave in ends. Take a well-deserved break and treat yourself kindly if you got this far with all the color changes. Pat yourself on the back, because you did well!

Penguin Amigurumi
Amigurumi Penguin

Note: I lightly stuff penguin as I go to make piece easier to work with and to make stuffing completed body easier. To make lower penguin body a little plumper, increase one stitch in black on rounds worked with 1 sc around after Round 11 instead of working 1 sc around, spacing increases so they do not fall directly above each other, finishing with about 24 sc in the final row. (Stitch total at bottom of penguin will not really matter, so don't worry if you don't have the exact amount, as long as penguin body looks good to you.)

With black and starting at tip of head, make magic ring.
Row 1: Working tightly here and throughout head and neck, 8 sc in ring. Work in rounds; do not join unless otherwise directed.

Round 2: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * 2 more times for total of 12 sc.

Rounds 3-5: 1 sc around.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 6: 1 dec across next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc, 1 dec across next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 4 sc for a total of 10 sc around; attach golden yellow thread and draw up black loop in next sc; yo with golden yellow and complete sc. This method of color change keeps color changes clean, preventing tiny spots of color in the wrong place. Black thread does not need to be carried along this round, but do not cut it off.

Round 7: 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc; in final black sc; draw up golden loop, yo with black and complete sc. You should be back to 12 sc in the round now. Bind off golden yellow thread and stuff end inside penguin head.

Round 8: 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, attach white thread and draw up black loop in next sc; yo with white and complete sc; carrying black thread across back of work, 1 white sc in each of next 3 sc, draw up white loop in next sc, yo with black and finish sc; with black and carrying white across back of work, twisting threads every 2 or 3 st, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc. You should have 14 sc in the round now.

Round 9: 1 inc each sc around, working white sc over white sc of round below and carrying color not being used across back of work. Twist thread every 2 or 3 st while working in black but not while working in white to prevent black from showing through on penguin belly.

Rounds 10-18: 1 sc in each st around, continuing color changing pattern and increasing 2 sc every 3 rounds, one in black and one in the center of the white, for a total of 18 sc at bottom of penguin and binding off white thread after completing row 18 white section (which should be 6 white sc). You should have about 18-20 sc when you finish this round, but exact count does not matter as long as you are happy with the shape of your penguin body.

Lightly stuff to desired plumpness.
Row 19: Work black sc across to final black sc before start of white belly and join golden yellow thread for feet; draw up black loop through final bl sc, yo with golden yellow and finish sc; working with golden yellow and carrying black across back of work, sl st in next sc, 3 dc in next sc, 1 sl st in each of next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc; bind of golden yellow and draw up black loop through next sc and draw through golden yellow loop already on hook to make final foot sl st. Working in black through end of penguin, 1 sc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc in each of next 8 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc.

Bind off, leaving tail long enough to close opening. Close opening by sewing black thread end through front to back across opening. Weave remaining end inside body.

Wings (make 2)

Leaving an end long enough to attach wing to penguin body, ch 7. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch. Bind off. Leave long enough end to tie to body. After making two wings, attach and secure to penguin just below neckline. Weave ends inside body.

Baby Harp Seal Amigurumi
Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin flakes to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Iceberg Snowflake
Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint both pieces with glue mixture. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflakes to dry at least 24 hours. Glue seed beads in place on penguin head for eyes. (Or sew them into place if desired.) Allow all pieces to dry. Remove pins. Gently peel pieces from wax paper or plastic wrap. Glue snowflakes together as shown and allow to dry.

After snowflakes thoroughly dry, glue penguin into position and allow to dry again. Pin if necessary.

Attach 10-inch clear thread to top of snowflake, weaving in end. This is one flake I'm not going to be twirling. (I don't want to show off the backside.) Snowflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Substitute Polar Bear Northern Lights Snowflake

19 November 2010

Snowflake Fun

I'm still buried in retouching, but a friend clued me in to this super cute commercial, and as you may have guessed, I LOVE this video and want to make all the snowflakes, both with thread and with kite fabric!!! Love, love, love!!!


And for those of you into serious photography, here's a related and entertaining tip for obtaining perfect white balance.

15 November 2010

Turkey Flake

Winged Flakes
I got a bit carried away with this pattern.

Many of the flakes I design undergo changes when I test the patterns. Sometimes the pattern I publish doesn’t resemble the initial concept at all.

My Thanksgiving snowflake went through major reconstruction and redesign, and I’ve decided to share all four versions of the pattern. My favorite will be Part Two next week. I hope at least one of these flakes tickles your fancy.

You may do whatever you'd like with snowflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Albino Turkey Flake
Finished Size: 5.25 inches from point to point
Materials:
Two-dimensional white turkey: White size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, 2 seed beads
Amigurumi turkey flake: Size 10 crochet thread in brown, peach, pale yellow, off white and burgundy, size 8 crochet hook, 2 seed beads, fiber fill
Amigurumi peacock flake: Size 10 crochet thread in royal, green and purple, size 8 crochet hook, 2 seed beads, fiber fill, optional sequins, beads and/or glitter for tail feathers

Turkey Flake Instructions

Basic Flake Pattern (specific color changes in versions that follow)

White Turkey Tail Feathers

Make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as dc).
Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 36 dc; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 4: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc, ch 2, *sk 1 dc, in next dc work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] (V-stitch made), ch 2, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc, ch 2; repeat from * around 4 times; sk next dc, in same dc as starting ch 3, work 1 dc, 1 hdc in 3rd ch of starting ch 3.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), around post of hdc work 1 dc, ch 4, *1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc, ch 4, in next ch 1 sp work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc], ch 4; repeat from * around 4 times; 1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc, ch 4, 2 dc in next V-space, 1 dc in 3rd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), around post of dc work 2 dc, ch 6, *1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 2 rows below, over sc in previous row, ch 6, in next ch 2 sp work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] (2 shells made), ch 6; repeat from * around 4 more times; 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 2 rows below, over sc in previous row, ch 6, 3 dc between next 2 shells; 1 dc in 3rd ch of starting ch 3.

Round 7: Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr), around post of dc work 2 dc, ch 8, *1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 3 rows below, over sc of 2 previous rows, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work [2 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc], ch 8; repeat from * around 4 more times; 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 3 rows below, over sc of 2 previous rows, ch 8, 2 dc between next 2 shells, 1 tr in same sp; ch 2, sl st in 4th ch of starting ch 4.; bind off. Weave in ends.

Body

Make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as sc).

Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 36 dc; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 4: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 1 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, *1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 48 dc; sl st in 1st dc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Flat White Head/Neck

Ch 22. 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, 1 tdtr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 hdc in each of next 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 8 ch. Bind off. Weave in ends.

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin tail feathers, body and head/neck to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint all three pieces with glue mixture. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow snowflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel all three pieces from wax paper or plastic wrap. Glue three layers together as shown. Glue seed beads in place for eyes. Allow to dry. Attach 10-inch clear thread to top of turkey, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the turkey twirl freely whenever you walk by! Turkey also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Turkey and Peacock may be worked in above pattern if you are intimidated by the instructions that follow, using colors instead of white.

Amigurumi Turkey and Peacock Flakes

And now we start to get a little crazy. The following patterns call for two flakes instead of one, and the second flake is modified, with a flat side instead of one point. Changing colors can become tedious. I strongly suggest working both flake pieces in one sitting not only to get it over with, but also to maintain even tension throughout so both flakes will be the same size. The patterns that follow are fun ornaments, but crocheters who do not like tiny single crochet tubes, changing colors and/or multiple pieces might not care for these projects.

Amigurumi Turkey Flake
Peacock or Turkey Amigurumi Flake

Tail Feathers, First Piece

With blue for peacock or brown for turkey, make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as dc).

Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 36 dc; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 4: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc, ch 2, *sk 1 dc, in next dc work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] (V-stitch made), ch 2, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc, ch 2; repeat from * around 4 times; sk next dc, in same dc as starting ch 5 work 1 dc, ch 1; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 3. Bind off.

Round 5: With green for peacock or peach for turkey, working in any V-space, work 2 dc, ch 4, *1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc, ch 4, in next ch 1 sp work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] (2 small shells made), ch 4; repeat from * around 4 times; 1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc, ch 4, 2 dc in next V-space, ch 3, sl st in starting dc; bind off.

Round 6: With purple for peacock or pale yellow for turkey, working in any ch 2 sp between small shells, work 3 dc, ch 6, *1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 2 rows below, over sc in previous row, ch 6, in next ch 2 sp work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] (2 shells made), ch 6; repeat from * around 4 more times; 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 2 rows below, over sc in previous row, ch 6, 3 dc between next 2 shells; ch 2, st st in starting dc; bind off.

Round 7: With blue for peacock or off white for turkey, working in any ch 2 sp between shells, work 1 tr and 2 dc, ch 8, *1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 3 rows below, over sc of 2 previous rows, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work [2 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc], ch 8; repeat from * around 4 more times; 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 3 rows below, over sc of 2 previous rows, ch 8, 2 dc between next 2 shells, 1 tr in same sp; ch 2, sl st in starting tr; bind off. Weave in ends.

Tail Feathers, Second Piece
Tail Feathers, Second Piece

With blue or brown, make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as dc).

Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 36 dc; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 4: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc, *ch 2, sk 1 dc, in next dc work [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] (V-stitch made), ch 2, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; repeat from * around 3 times; 2 sc in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 2; in same dc as starting ch 5 work 1 dc, ch 1; sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch 5. Bind off.

Round 5: With green or peach, working in first V-space, work 2 dc, *ch 4, 1 sc in middle sc of next 3 sc, ch 4, in next ch 1 sp work [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] (2 small shells made); repeat from * around 3 times; ch 4, sk 1 sc, 1 sc in each of next 9 sc, sk next sc, ch 4, 2 dc in next V-space, ch 3, sl st in starting dc; bind off.

Round 6: With purple or pale yellow, working in first ch 2 sp between small shells, work 3 dc, *ch 6, 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 2 rows below, over sc in previous row, ch 6, in next ch 2 sp work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] (2 shells made); repeat from * around 3 more times; ch 6, sk next sc, 1 sc in each of next 7 sc, sk next sc, ch 6, 3 dc between next 2 shells; ch 2, st st in starting dc; bind off.

Round 7: With blue or off white, working in first ch 2 sp between shells, work 1 tr and 2 dc, *ch 8, 1 sc in middle sc of 3 sc group 3 rows below, over sc of 2 previous rows, ch 8, in next ch 2 sp work [2 dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc]; repeat from * around 3 more times; ch 8, sk 1 sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc, ch 8, sk next sc, 2 dc between next 2 shells, 1 tr in same sp; ch 2, sl st in starting tr; bind off. Weave in ends. Take a well-deserved break and treat yourself kindly if you got this far with all the color changes. Pat yourself on the back, because you did well!

Turkey Body

With brown, make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as sc).

Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 36 dc; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 4: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 1 dc in same dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, *1 dc in each of next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * around 10 more times for a total of 48 dc; sl st in 1st dc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Note: Turkey Body also makes excellent two-dimensional Christmas ball ornament when made in any thread color with 3 or 4 white or silver dcs at top.

Christmas Ball Ornaments made from Turkey Body instructions
Peacock Body

With blue, make magic ring; ch 2 (does not count as sc).

Round 1: 12 dc in ring; sl st in 1st dc. Pull magic circle tight.

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in each dc around for a total of 24; sl st in 1st dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 2 dc in same dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 sc in each of next 8 dc, 2 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 sc in each of next 8 dc, 2 dc in each of next 2 dc, sl st in starting dc; bind off. Weave in ends.

Amigurumi Head/Neck

Note: I lightly stuff head and neck as I go to make piece easier to work with and to make stuffing head and neck easier. Rows 6 and 7 have linked double crochet and linked half double crochet to prevent holes.

With blue and starting at tip of head, make magic ring.

Row 1: Working tightly here and throughout head and neck, 6 sc in ring. Work in rounds; do not join unless otherwise directed.

Round 2: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc; repeat from * 2 more times for total of 9 sc.

Rounds 3-5: 1 sc around.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Rounds 6-7: Shaping neck, 1 hdc in next st, insert hook into middle loop of hdc and draw up loop, draw up loop through next st, yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through 2 loops (linked dc (ldc) made), 1 ldc in next st, 1 lhdc (linked hdc (lhdc) worked same as ldc) in next st, 1 sc in each of next 5 sc.

Rounds 8-13: 1 sc in each st around for a total of 9 sc.

Rounds 14-19: 1 inc each row for a total of 15 sc at the end of Round 19.
Rounds 20-22: 1 sc in each st around. Lightly stuff to desired plumpness.

Row 23: If you are not at the side of the neck, sc until you are at a side. Pinch neck flat and sc across working through both front and back, closing neck, for a total of 8 sc. Ch 1, turn.

Rows 24-25: 1 sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
Bind off. Weave ends inside of neck.

Amigurumi Turkey Flake
For turkey, using burgundy thread and leaving a 1- or 2-inch tail, ch 6, turn. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch; bind off, leaving 1- or 2-inch tail. Tie beard beneath turkey’s chin using tails and weave ends into body.

Amigurumi Peacock Head and Neck
For peacock, take a 5-inch piece of blue thread, fold it in half, fold it in half again, and pull double loops at folded end beneath one stitch at top of head. Tie square knot. Trim hair to desired length. Lightly stiffen hair by touching up with glue/water mixture if desired to achieve punk appearance.

Peacock Body Assembly
Stiffen and assemble flakes and body same as albino turkey instructions above. Glue seed bead eyes into position on head as desired. (Beads may be sewn on if desired. I’ve been gluing eyeballs into place the last couple of months because I’m getting old, and threading a beading needle is becoming quite the challenge. Or bloody adventure...)

Assembled Peacock
After flake and body layers have thoroughly dried, glue amigurumi neck and head into position and allow to dry again. Pin if necessary. Glitter, sequins and beads may be applied to peacock feathers if desired.

See you next week with Part Two and my favorite variation of this pattern!


Jeweled Amigurumi Peacock Flake

08 November 2010

Starflake Monday

Inspiration for a Starflake, My Montana T-Shirt

Today's pattern doesn't have six points. This starflake was inspired by an experience last summer.

I was wearing my Montana T-shirt when a much-older man stopped me and thanked me for wearing "the flag." I was so taken aback by his sentiment, I almost couldn't think of anything to say.

"And I'll bet you served, didn't you," I managed to squeak out.

He stood at attention and saluted.

"Yes, ma'am," he answered. "Korea and WWII."

"Then I'd like to shake your hand," I said weakly, shyly. I'd heard many experiences others told of doing such a thing, but I'd never done it, and I was nervous. I don't know why, but it just didn't come naturally, perhaps because I'm just plain shy by nature, and I didn't know this man. I had to force it.

But he did not notice. Tears welled in the corners of his eyes, and he proudly shook my hand. He thanked me again.

Next time, it won't be so hard. Now I know why others ask to shake a veteran's hand. Something more powerful than electricity transmits when you thank a veteran for risking his life to protect our freedom.

Stars are a beautiful way to decorate at Christmas; they decorate our flag as well. During World War I, mothers hung blue stars in their windows for every son fighting. Gold stars were hung in memory of the sons they lost. To this day, men and women lost during service to their country are honored by the Gold Star Mothers Club.

This star is designed in honor of all veterans and all mothers. Happy Veterans Day!

You may do whatever you'd like with starflakes you make from this pattern, but you may not sell the pattern. Thanks, and enjoy!

Starflakes

Finished Size: 4.75 inches from point to point
Materials: Size 10 crochet thread, size 8 crochet hook, empty pizza box, wax paper or plastic wrap, cellophane tape, glue, water, glitter, small container for glue/water mixture, paintbrush, stick pins that won't be used later for sewing, clear thread or fishing line

Starflake Instructions

Ch 30; being careful not to twist, sl st into 1st ch .

Starflake

Round 1: Ch 1, 1 sc into same ch; ch 3, sk 2 ch, 1 dc into next ch; * ch 2, sk 2 ch, 1 sc into next ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, 1 dc into next ch; repeat from * around 3 more times; sk 2 ch, sl st into starting sc.

Round 2: 1 sc tightly into starting sc directly below; ch 3, sk next ch 2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3, * 1 sc tightly into next sc directly below, ch 3, sk next ch 2 sp, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in same dc, ch 3; repeat from * around 3 more times; sl st in starting sc.

Round 3: 1 sc tightly into sc directly below; ch 5, sk next ch 3 sp, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in same sp, ch 5, * 1 sc tightly into next sc directly below, ch 5, sk next ch 3 sp, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in same sp, ch 5; repeat from * around 3 more times; sl st in starting sc.
If you're not reading this pattern on Snowcatcher, you're not reading the designer's blog. Please go here to see the original.

Round 4: 1 sc tightly into sc directly below; ch 7, sk next ch 5 sp, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch 3 sp, ch 7, * 1 sc tightly into next sc directly below, ch 7, sk next ch 5 sp, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch 3 sp, ch 7; repeat from * around 3 more times; sl st in starting sc.

Round 5: 1 sc tightly into sc directly below; ch 9, sk next ch 7 sp, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch 3 sp, ch 9, * 1 sc tightly into next sc directly below, ch 9, sk next ch 7 sp, 1 dc in next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch 3 sp, ch 9; repeat from * around 3 more times; sl st in starting sc; bind off. Weave in ends.

NOTE: I made four different sizes by ending stars on the second, third, fourth and fifth rows. After all, you can never have too many stars at Christmas!

Finish: Tape wax paper or plastic wrap to top of empty pizza box. Pin starflake to box on top of wax paper or plastic wrap.

Here is a fold-and-cut star tutorial. Here is a printable star template. Here are printable star templates in different sizes.

Mix a few drops of water with a teaspoon of glue in small washable container. Paint starflake with glue mixture. Sprinkle lightly with glitter. Wash paintbrush and container thoroughly. Allow starflake to dry at least 24 hours. Remove pins. Gently peel snowflake from wax paper or plastic wrap. Attach 10-inch clear thread to one spoke, weaving in end. Wrap fishing line around tree branch (or tape to ceiling or any overhead surface) and watch the starflake twirl freely whenever you walk by! Starflake also may be taped to window or tied to doorknob or cabinet handle.

Starflakes for Military Moms
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